[T3] Air compressor ?

[Mike Fisher]

Force a tapered steel punch down it to get it round again.

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 6:21 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The tube I got is a replacement and it's the same wall thickness as the
> original. The only issue I see is for some reason the tube is not perfectly
> round . It is 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID . The leak is not real bad yet I'd prefer
> there were no leaks. The Unloader releases the head pressure. I don't need
> the head to check valve tube to help out.
>
>  If I could just take a 3/8" drill bit shank or whatever bit that fits and
> tap it in 3/4" it might round the copper and create a seal between the
> ferrules and copper tube. Since the ferrules are in place they would keep
> the OD of the copper from expanding. I don't really want to try to tighten
> the fittings more and end up with a ferrule that collapses the OD of the
> copper like the very old original one was at the head end. I bought a new
> 1/2" compression fitting because I needed the nuts and ferrules I could use
> the body , fit the new pipe with the ferrule then try to fit a 3/8" drill
> bit shank  in to make  certain the ferrule remains round. I would smooth
> the bit and taper the end a bit more and lube it so as not to destroy the
> inside of the copper.
>
>  As is livable it's better than before. The new replacement copper is
> really tough to bend like the old one was. I tightened it finger tight then
> 1/2 turn more and it leaked and gave it another 1/2 turn same thing. This
> was what I found on you tube sites. I normally finger tight then use a
> wrench till it feels snug and never crushed the copper or had leaks. The
> original tube at the head was tightened so much that the ferrule was barely
> more than the copper OD and I could see the ferrule past the nut. I never
> noticed this until I replaced the check valve and the check valve end was
> fine . The fellow I traded for it might have cranked down on the heads
> fitting to cure a leak. I know the new copper is not round yet it measures
> the same OD as the original . Once I realized it leaked I removed it to see
> why and found the ferrule made contact all around except one small area . I
> doubt more tightening will help.
>
>  This stuff drives me nuts when you get a new pipe and find it has a small
> flat spot and I slide a new ferrule down the entire pipe and it has that
> slight flat spot the entire length.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 5:44 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > One thing to keep in mind is that copper tubing comes in different wall
> > thicknesses. The thinner wall stuff is not suitable for any of the
> ferrule
> > style
> > sealing methods, because the wall will just collapse rather than being
> > stiff
> > enough for the ferrule to bite into it and seal.
> >
> > I learned this lesson many years ago, when i was working on a small
> system
> > that had to be helium leak-tight. I could make a leak tight joint at one
> > end of
> > the tube, but as soon as I did ANYTHING to the other end, the movement
> > would open up a leak on the first end. The thing I was working on was a
> > network of maybe 20 connections in a couple square feet, so until I
> > switched
> > to heavy wall copper, I was just chasing one leak after another.
> >
> > I finally found recommendations from Parker and Swagelock regarding the
> > min. wall thicknesses for various diameter tubes that could be reliably
> > sealed. Look here:
> >
> > https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-107.PDF
> >
> > Read the section about gas service on page 2, as well as the chart on
> page
> > 7 regarding copper tubing. The note at the bottom of page 7 seems to
> > indicate that the minimum wall thickness for air in 1/2" copper tubing
> > would
> > be 0.049".
> >
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

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