[T3] Engine oil temp?

[William Jahn]

I'm not sure what you are saying. Do you mean if the oil light comes on
after a hot highway run at (idle) with a worn engine you have bearing
issues?  A fresh engine should have 12 to 15 PSI at idle on the same run
and the oil light should be off?

 I recall Russ saying it was pretty normal especially if the light went out
just past idle.

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 12:13 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> if you have an oil light after a hot highway run
> yu have bearing problems, a fresh engine should be 12 - 15 psi HOT, with
> 30wt, higher with 40, this is normal for a worn engine but if its that way
> out of the box something is wrong.
>
> Keith
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2020 12:52 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Engine oil temp?
>
> Yes he did , and I understand how this works. And this has to do with oil
> weight and of course bearing clearance. I use SAE 40 even when I rebuilt
> this engine and on a hot freeway run I'd come to a stop and the oil light
> would come on. This is why I didn't go down to SAE 30 , 30 may be fine
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 9:42 AM Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Jim told us that oil pressure isn't important.  It's the oil flow?
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 9:38 AM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > The only thing I don't quite understand is on what basis has anyone
> > tested
> > > these gauges to say for certain they are not accurate or at least very
> > > close to being so. The only true way to know would be to use a good
> screw
> > > in oil pressure gauge on the cooler fitting and check that against what
> > the
> > > electric VDO setup reads.
> > >
> > >  I feel as long as the wiring to the senders and gauges is done
> properly
> > > and the grounds are done properly they will be as good as they can get.
> > >  I know my old oil pressure gauge had issues because just with the key
> on
> > > the gauge read 10 PSI and the sender should read 10 OHM engine off , my
> > old
> > > one read from 9.5 ohm to over 95 ohm just by tapping it with my fingers
> .
> > > The new one stays at 10 ohm engine off . It reads completely different
> > from
> > > the old ones.  Before this I even replaced the wiring and put the
> ground
> > on
> > > the battery to the rear seat wall ground . None of that changed a
> thing.
> > I
> > > added inline fuses to the gauges between the fuse box and battery
> > positive
> > > on the gauges just in case and use a relay for the power source. When I
> > > first installed them direct to a spare key on fuse on a 73 that's #12
> > they
> > > didn't seem to read proper so I used a 12 volt relay used fuse 9 hot
> all
> > > the time that powers that insane key buzzer for the feed source then
> fuse
> > > 12 to the relay coil and that fixed the issue.
> > >
> > > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 8:56 AM Hal Sullivan <tristessa at tristessa.us>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > On 7/18/20 11:55 PM, William Jahn wrote:
> > > > >   I  can't recall a car or truck I ever had that didn't have at the
> > > very
> > > > > least a water temp and oil pressure gauge as well as a light or
> two.
> > > > >
> > > > I inherited an '81 Ford Escort from my grandmother in the late '90s,
> > > > back before our first ACVW.  It had a speedometer, a gas gauge and
> some
> > > > idiot lights.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I'll take an electric oil pressure gauge over no gauge any day of the
> > > > week.  Even without absolute accuracy, they're useful for spotting
> > > > problems before they really become PROBLEMS .
> > > >
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