[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Mon Sep 6 19:21:08 PDT 2021


I usually run 89 . Sometimes 87 I don't feel or hear any difference as far
as pinging goes. The machine shop didn't take much off with the fly cut ,
just enough to true up the seal , they said maybe .010" . I used SAE 30
kendall to break the engine in when it had good zinc.  After I drove it
maybe 15K I went to SAE 40 Kendall. mainly because on real  hot days and
not certain about the real bearing clearance and I was doing a lot of
freeway runs back then . I think the machine shop included copper shims and
said if I wanted I could use them between the heads and cylinders , I
didn't like the fit and decided not to, just didn't trust they would last ,
it could be they were to be fit between the case and cylinders I just can't
recall .They were to take up the .010" or whatever the flycut removed , at
the time we still had leaded gas here. I just used the paper gaskets to the
case and the heads just set on the clean flycut, I did use a brush on
sealer so it was not just paper . . I didn't have a PC or internet back
then. I just used the Bentley. All the rebuild kits had the same gaskets no
one said anything about silicone instead of the paper gaskets or for
sealing the head washers to the studs. It was a different world in 1997. I
knew a fellow where I worked who built sand rails and he told me what
machine shop to go to that did first rate work.I know he used to use Co fap
cylinder kits and measured deck height then sawed off the pistons that were
higher. Mine all set at the same height , I just measured each piston at
TDC and they were all the same , I also got rebuilt rods since they were
balanced , checked for twist and new rod nuts and bolts. and had fitted new
piston pin bushings. Since I rebuilt this engine I had all the specs
written down yet lost that I do know the mileage when  I rebuilt it because
I had that written down on an old registration card I still had. I know the
trips I took and padded it a bit and figure this engine at the most has 40K
on it. I came up with 35K and added to it . Even if it has 45 K that's not
a lot.   It's just a stock 1600. I wasn't into large bores and long
strokes. The 72 engine I rebuilt looked like the case was rebuilt not long
before I did it again. Now the heads were not. I had the machine shop
install time serts in all the 4 spark plug holes because 2 were not great
and they shimmed the springs' new stem  seals , valve guides  and valves.
They did a lot of race engines and had all the proper tools.

On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 5:20 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> If the heads were cut, it would need to be cc'd and compression ratio
> adjusted accordingly, also that changes the valve train geometry and new
> adjustable push rods
> Need to be used.  Lots of variables and one change affects everything.
> Even with stock compression ratio I had to run 89 in mine, what octane are
> you running?  It wont make it run hotter
> But crap gas will make it detonate and that’s bad...
>
> Keith'
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  “Hothe”
> 65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
> 93 RX7  “Redstur”
> 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> On
> Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Monday, September 6, 2021 3:54 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?
>
>  I checked the distributor not long ago. It has all the springs and
> everything in place. I also checked the mechanical advance and it does not
> advance more than what a 73 should . I forget right now what that was. I
> got a good vacuum advance can yet when I installed it once the engine was
> hot it would ping . What I think is the reason is when I rebuilt it, the
> new pistons were flat top. Did the rebuild in 1997 the machine shop also
> fly cut the heads just to clean up the mating surface. Last time I was
> playing around with the timing it seemed to run a bit stronger with the
> timing retarded a bit think it's at 3  BTDC . It used to be fine at 5 BTDC
> yet once the fuel changed over the years it got worse. I just had an auto
> zone timing light I got years ago so the best I could do is the one harbor
> freight offers that has an advance knob yet I haven't used it yet.
>
> On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 12:23 PM Phil Hof <phil.hof at ostronic.org> wrote:
>
> > I am glad to see it presented that 220 is a MINIMUM and not a sign of
> > overheating.  It is necessary to boil off water from condensation and
> > anything less will not do that.
> >
> > I also have an overheating problem, as many know, from my broken
> > distributor on the return for the Invasion five years ago.  260-280 is
> > too hot, and that s how mine runs on the freeway, so the engine is now
> > out and stripped for another rebuild.
> >
> > I also have learned a lot about viscosity and the operation of the
> > dual-relief case plungers.  Thicker oil may boost pressure, but it
> > will  look  like thick cold oil and the plunger will bypass the oil
> > cooler, making it run hotter, not cooler.  20-50 is not thicker when
> > cold, but stays a little too thick when hot and so the cooler may be
> > bypassed.  I ran this oil for years without trouble, but I was
> > probably shortening the life of the motor.  Live and learn.
> >
> > If yours is running hot, check the timing  not just static, but also
> > the eventual advance at higher rpm and vacuum.  That s how mine
> > failed.  Broken spring posts or weights meant it never stopped
> > increasing with rpm  right up to 45 degrees mechanical advance!
> >
> > -Phil
> >
> >
> >
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > --
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2021 22:22:47 -0400
> > > From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
> > > To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?
> > > Message-ID: <001b01d7a2c6$186d4e80$4947eb80$@nycap.rr.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Quite a few varibles, what is your oil viscosity?  Oil light with
> > > 10W30
> > is
> > > not as bad as with 25W50,
> > > Still, its an indication of a worn engine, but not necessarily worn
> out.
> > > The sender is also part of the equation, the good german ones come
> > > on at 5PSI, The cheap ones don?t come on till there is virtually no
> > > pressure.
> > >
> > > When the engine was new, the idle with 30wt on a hot day at about
> 12psi.
> > >
> > > 180 oil temp is cool
> > > 220 is starting to get warm
> > > 230 its getting warmer
> > > 240 its time to back off a bit, that?s hot, although it will
> > > tolerate
> > that
> > > for some time with good oil, but these are OIL temps, not the temp
> > > of the block, or the cooler, which is what you
> > get
> > > with a sender screwed into anything..  its heat sunk on the block
> > > And is 20-30 degree's cooler than the actual oil around it.
> > >
> > > Keith
> > >
> > >
> > > Topnotch Restorations
> > > topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> > > http://www.topnotchresto.com
> > > 71 Squareback? ?Hothe?
> > > 65 Notchback? ?El Baja Rojo?
> > > 93 RX7? ?Redstur?
> > > 13 Subaru?Outback?"Blendin"
> > >
> > > -
> > > *************************************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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