[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

[William Jahn]

I tried to test the temp sensor in boiling water , trouble is the readings
are all over the map. It tests out cold @ 700 ohm the warm (whatever warm
means ) is 22ohm . Tried 2 different meters . When the water was boiling
steady I got a low of 460 ohm yet it was not steady at times it was 570 to
600 ohm  . The other meter which is not auto range reads boiling 30 to 90
ohm. I also got a few spots on both meters where I saw an open 0 ohm .

 None of this helps me one bit. I have no idea what the one in the sump
plate reads , all I know is it moves up steady.

 I have no idea what to do with this info. Best I can do is install the new
one in the cooler bypass and see what each one reads and how they react .
Or remove the gauge or try the old gauge. It worked the same as the new
one. Connect it to a 12 volt source I have and power it up and see what it
reads in boiling water.

 I drove the car today. The ambient was 85F 180 oil temp 32 PSI @ 2400 RPM
cold start  the oil pressure @2400 RPM was just around 50 PSI.

 I have no idea what I will do.

 I bought a new oil pressure gauge because the old one was always showing
10 PSI key on engine off. The new one goes to 0 , plus I got a new pressure
sender because it should read 10 ohm engine off and it was higher and never
the same on this sender there is an oil light connection spec is light on
at 7 PSI that seemed dead on with the gauge the day it got real hot . That
gave me better readings at least steady and didn't read 75 PSI cold@ 1000
RPM , and I saw readings that I felt better about. I got a new temp gauge
because the old one was starting to crack around the 1/4 terminals. It
reads the same as the old one , just didn't trust it anymore.

On Tue, Sep 7, 2021 at 6:58 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 5 Sep 2021 at 9:52, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > I was stuck in traffic barely moving for over an hour and the oil temp
> > read just under 220 F the oil light would go on at idle , it was 94 F air
> > temp . If I put the auto trans in neutral the oil light would go out . I
> > checked the oil level later and was down 1/2 quart . Once I was able to
> > start moving the oil temps dropped .
>
> Given your situation, hot day, hot pavement, stop & go traffic (surrounded
> by
> other cars also shedding their excess engine heat, as well as the heat
> from
> their ACs) I don't see anything particularly unusual about what you
> observed. Your 220 F indicated temperature is probably not unusual for
> those conditions, but it can be informative to test your temp sensor in
> boiling
> water (212 F) to see how good the calibration is.
>
> Putting the AT into N is the right thing to do: It reduces the load on the
> engine which means less waste heat to get rid of, plus it lets the idle
> speed
> increase a bit, providing a bit more cooling and a bit more oil pumped
> thru
> the engine and oil cooler. It's a zero effort solution.
>
> Once you get moving, there's no longer stagnant hot exhaust air trapped
> under the car, plus there's turbulence that enhances the cooling of the
> underside of the engine.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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