[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Mon Sep 6 13:47:45 PDT 2021

My 73 has the PCV so it's supposed to help with moisture. The 72 case I
used also had that. The 72 also had a different distributor that had the
retard on the vacuum can andthe 73 had the EGR yet it was junk so I blocked
the port on the right HE. I used the 72 IAD because I didn't need the EGR
pipe. The 73 was an X and 72 a U engine yet both had the same rods and
pistons Bently shows the U having 7.7 compression and the 73 7.3 yet I
can't see how , the Bentley does have some info wrong . As I said in
another post when I was checking the timing it had more pep retarded so I
don't set it @ 5 BTDC at one point I had it set at close to 0 and it did
pull better. The auto zone timing light has a metal inductor , the set the
timing states engine warmed up yet yet I do this the metal inductor gets
too hot and the readings change because heat affects it in some way. I used
to just get the light all set up and lower the RPM enough so the mechanic
would not be in play and do it with the engine just warming up, not fully
warmed up.

 At the very least other than timing I don't hear any pinging yet I want to
at least pull the cooler bypass relief valve just to make certain it is
free to move than install the temp sensor I got in place of the stock
threaded plug . That way I can move the gauge wire to either and see if
there is a difference in what the oil temp reads. I lost the stock drain
plug when I installed the VDO temp sensor in its place . I used the cover
plate off the 72 because the 73 did not have the drain plug I ordered a
replacement . Either way if both senders read the same I'd rather have a
drain plug in the sump plate instead of the temp sensor . I've read that
it's more accurate based on a few youtube videos I saw. Someone mentioned
that Gene Berg said it was a better spot . Not that I expect any of them to
read dead on , I just like to have an idea so if anything like the hot day
drive changes I can at least make a judgement . From what I gather when
it's in the sump it reads oil that is returned and there is possible
cooling from air flow . In the other spot it's reading the oil temp after
the pump oil that is drawn from the sump through the pump . I have only
opinions not facts.

 I do know that simply going by the stated timing like 5BTDC is not
definite. Each engine may need more or less since not 2 engines are the
same. As it is now I don't hear pinging yet I've read a very slight ping
may not be heard . I know what it sounds like . Years ago I used to just
set it static with a light bulb and then check with a timing  light and it
was dead on , I don't rely on that anymore. The sole reason it got a timing
light was because I had a pertronix and you can't time it anyother way . I
removed that and went back to points.

On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 12:53 PM Max Welton <max.welton.2k at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 1:23 PM Phil Hof <phil.hof at ostronic.org> wrote:
> >
> > I am glad to see it presented that 220 is a MINIMUM and not a sign of
> overheating.  It is necessary to boil off water from condensation and
> anything less will not do that.
> True. Water will evaporate but the water molecules must be exposed to
> air (on the surface) for that to happen. When I drove all year I had
> problems with mayo oil in the winter.
> There are a variety of things that will make it run hot, not just
> timing. But the conditions the OP describes just sounds like normal
> ops to me.
> Max
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