[T3] How's the trip going?

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Tue Jun 21 16:34:20 PDT 2022

In a pinch, with an iron, you can solder a wire between the center terminal
and the end, just keep solder away from where the carbon block rides.

Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  “Hothe”
65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
93 RX7  “Redstur”
13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> On
Behalf Of Jim Adney
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2022 9:39 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] How's the trip going?

On 21 Jun 2022 at 3:36, john carartbyjohn.com wrote:

> I pulled the old rotor.  Shouldn't there be continuity between the 
> center and the tab that swipes by the 4 plug wire locations in the 
> cap?  I don't get and reading there at all.

Good rotors will have ~5000 Ohms from center to tip due to a built in
resistor. Many aftermarket rotors will be zero Ohms. If that resistor goes
open, the HV spark will jump the break and still run the engine, but that
internal spark slowly eats away the ends of the break, making the gap wider
and wider, eventually leading to poor running.

As this is happening, the voltage at the center contact has to go higher and
higher, making punch-thru more and more likely.

I think you've found your smoking gun.  ;-)

I make a point of checking the rotor and SP connector resistances at each
tuneup. Any that have gone to infinity get replaced before they start to
cause poor running.

Hope you can find a replacement rotor quickly. If the local FLAPS can't get
one, look for an independent VW or foreign car repair shop.

Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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