[T3] Horn Issue
Max Welton
max.welton.2k at gmail.com
Tue Mar 3 13:55:06 PST 2026
Here's a PS on this issue. I reassembled everything using the solid
rubber disk joint from CB that passed the electrical test on the
bench. And what do you know, with everything bolted up, the leak
returned. So I resolved to put the ISP disk back in and just wire the
horn to switched power. I find that annoying as I now have a deviation
from the diagram I've been using. So I have to remember I did that.
For completeness I cut open the second ISP West disk to see what is inside.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2654475.jpg
It certainly has some sort of material embedded. And it's not 50 years old. ;-)
Max
On Sat, Feb 14, 2026 at 11:11 PM Max Welton <max.welton.2k at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think those are cracks John. It's just a pretty rough mold.
> When we're in WI I could pull the tank and you guys can get a
> first-person look at it. I'll also bring the two I got from ISP that
> leaked. We can cut one up to see what's inside. Steering coupler tech
> session? :-)
>
> Max
>
> On Sat, Feb 14, 2026 at 1:10 PM John Jaranson <john at carartbyjohn.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > > On Feb 14, 2026, at 1:57 PM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's interesting. There's nothing wrong with having a metal bushing in
> > > there. It's important to have something that keeps the bolts from completely
> > > crushing the rubber. I assume those special washers meet in the middle to
> > > limit the crush.
> > >
> > > I believe the OG part had canvas molded into the middle of the rubber part,
> > > to give it the extra strength it needs. Does this one also have the imbedded
> > > fabric? I'd be reluctant to use it if it didn't.
> > >
> >
> > You are correct, Jim. The originals had a fabric layer or two that were overloaded with the rubber. Here is a shot that you can see the layers of fabric where the rubber has crumbled.
> >
> > https://www.carartbyjohn.com/SophyUpdates/VWSteeringJoint.jpg
> >
> > This layer makes it a composite and much stringer and crack resistant with aprogressive failure mode. Without the fabric, any crack growth would be rapid and catastrophic.
> >
> > Like you, I would be reluctant to use one that doesn’t have this layer. Also, the CB Performance part that Max posted a picture of looks to have some surface cracks already and some serious knit lines were the rubber flowed around the bolt holes. The solid urethane ones that are sold are likely no better. I would be more comfortable using a decent original used one…hopefully in better shape than the one I posted a picture of…than any of the new ones without the inner layer.
> >
> > I also agree that the metal, anti-crush bushings are both important and not a problem in themselves for creating an electrical path. It is interesting that the one Max tested had a conductive path. I winder what additives are In the rubber or urethane that makes it so. Hmmmm….
> >
> > John
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