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<DIV>In a message dated 3/18/2013 12:50:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jacob.schroeder@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>I will go ahead and remove these calipers and get them ready to
ship your<BR>way. We can discuss logistics in a PM once I get them off
the car and can<BR>check the master cylinder as you suggested. I do not
think that I have a<BR>leak in the long hard line because I have not heard
that sound and any leak<BR>that I have appears to be minor.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'd probably pull the master cylinder, and ship it with the calipers to
Jim. If you use the large USPS box, you could get everything in it, and save a
little on shipping. I'd also replace the long line too, mainly because they
like to rust out in the pedal area, but also since you'll have the master
cylinder out of the car for at least a week. The best way to do that line
I've found, is in 2 pieces, with a brass connector in the middle.
Unfortunately, I've forgotten the total length needed, but I believe it's
close to 80 inches. You'll need bubble flares (metric ends) on the ends
of the lines. I got my lines and coupler from NAPA, as their fittings are far
superior to those sold at the zone. They cost a little more, but you only have
to do it once. : ) Also, by going with a 2 piece line, IF you ever have to
replace the front section again, it'll be easier to do. This is a trick I
learned from Russ.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>One nice thing about having Jim rebuild the calipers and master cylinder,
along with replacing the long line and the 4 hoses, is that you've got
most of the brake system clean and ready for a switch to DoT 5 brake fluid. :
) While you have the hoses off, along with the master cylinder and calipers,
you can purge the lines with compressed air to remove the old DoT 3 brake
fluid. Then when you reassemble everything, it's basically ready for new
fluid. Do the rear wheel cylinders at the same time Jim has the calipers, then
you'll be good to go. It might cost a little more to do this ALL at once, but
once done, you shouldn't have to go back in there for a very long time, making
it cost effective in the long run. If you've looked at the links in my Samba
signature, you'll see that I do this kind of rebuild on my own cars. And I
take brake work very serious.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As for getting stuff from J-Bugs, I'd pass, and let Jim do his thing. I
only say this, as Jim mentioned, some of the rebuilders out there leave a lot
to be desired. Add in that most of those parts sit on a shelf somewhere until
purchased, and by the time they get used the rubber inside will be shot
(needing a rebuild again). Or, they send you the wrong parts, and you have to
ship them back (on your dime), and this just causes a waste of time and money.
Now, Jim and Russ have both told me (in the past) that the quality of the
original German parts far exceed those of the reproduced parts being sold
today. This makes it better to rebuild the OE parts (you know they fit),
versus buying new. Just look thru some of threads on the Samba, and you'll see
some of the issues that we as type 3 owners have run into lately with new
parts that don't fit, or fail quickly after being installed. :O</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Please note, I don't get a kick back or a discount from Jim for helping
push his services. ;-) Like you, I just searched to find someone who does
a good job rebuilding the parts I need rebuilt. And doing it in a timely
manner. : )
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>