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<DIV>In a message dated 5/9/2013 12:10:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jadney@vwtype3.org writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>I get the impression that you and Ken are working under a couple of
<BR>assumptions:<BR><BR>1) That the marking on the pulley is only approximate
and that this <BR>is a way to get a better TDC.<BR><BR>2) That the position of
the dist drive gear has some effect on when <BR>TDC occurs.<BR><BR>> An
important final step when you are at that point, when you have used
the<BR>> method I described to find TDC for no.1 and see that notch on the
pulley is<BR>> 24 degrees off, is to reach down through the inspection hole
and put a spot<BR>> of White paint or White out at 12 O'clock on the
Pulley. That paint spot<BR>> then becomes your new 'notch' for timing
purposes. From now on you're<BR>> timing to the Paint Spot rather
than the Notch.<BR><BR>This is absolutely wrong. I don't mean to be mean about
it, but I <BR>can't emphasize this enough. Don't do this.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have to agree with Jim on this. It actually sounds like you're going to
end up being 24 degrees advanced by the time you're done, add in the 20+
degrees the distributor will give, and you could be close to 50 degrees in
total timing (way too much for our fuels today). The engine will run with that
much advance though, but it'll also try to self destruct too.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've always brought the pulley up to TDC, then checked both #1 valves,
along with #2 intake valve (to verify I'm on #1 cylinder), as it seems that
valve will have some slack in it, when you're on #1 cylinder. Then I set
everything else. Like Jim mentioned, IF you had long enough wires, you could
literally set the distributor drive gear anywhere you wanted it, and go from
there. </DIV>
<DIV>BUT, keep in mind that the type 3 FI distributor has a retard for #3
cylinder built in, along with the trigger points. And the trigger points
require #1 to be in the right spot, for both electrical timing (spark) and
fuel timing (opening the pairs of injectors). If these are off, then you won't
get the engine to run correctly. </DIV>
<DIV>Years ago, Russ told us of a short cut method of doing a valve
adjustment, but I can't find the write up at the moment. But I think it was
basically doing 3 valves on 1 side (both #1 valves, and #2 intake), and 1
valve on the other side (#4 exhaust), spin the engine 180, then repeat
the 3 valves on 1 side (both #3 valves, #4 intake, and 1 on the other
side (#2 exhaust), and put the covers back on. I'll try and find it (I
might be wrong on which other valve needs to be done), as it might help in
verifying that you'll be off with the method you're trying to use to get #1 in
the correct spot.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>