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<DIV>In a message dated 5/9/2013 8:28:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Bobsnotch@aol.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Years ago, Russ told us of a short cut method of doing a
valve adjustment, <BR>but I can't find the write up at the moment. But I
think it was basically <BR>doing 3 valves on 1 side (both #1 valves, and
#2 intake), and 1 valve on <BR>the other side (#4 exhaust), spin the
engine 180, then repeat the 3 valves on <BR>1 side (both #3 valves, #4
intake, and 1 on the other side (#2 exhaust), <BR>and put the covers
back on. I'll try and find it (I might be wrong on which <BR>other valve
needs to be done), as it might help in verifying that you'll be <BR>off
with the method you're trying to use to get #1 in the correct
spot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Found it.</DIV>
<DIV>A while back, Russ Wolfe suggested another method. <BR><BR>Set Crank to
#1 TDC - adjust intake and exhaust on #1, intake only on #2, and exhaust on
#4<BR><BR>Rotate the crank 360* to #3 TDC - Adjust intake and exhaust on #3,
Intake only on #4, and Exhaust on #2. <BR><BR>It cuts the process time in
half. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ok, I was off on the amount to turn the engine (360, instead of the 180 I
wrote).</DIV>
<DIV>Also, Russ said NOT to use the notch on the distributor rim for #1, as
most engine builders put the distributor drive in, incorrectly (they set them
for a type 1 engine).
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>