<div dir="ltr">I did have it working great without the fuse in it. The experts put it all back together and it all went to Hell. I tried shortening up the throttle cable, but that made it worse. It has even blown a couple fuses, but didn't yesterday when I put 40 miles on it to Brownsville. I was thinking about slotting the bracket bolts to get some adjustment? It is going back for it's 1000 mile oil change/tuneup under Warranty, so we will get it figured out eventually. <br>
</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 7:32 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:Bobsnotch@aol.com" target="_blank">Bobsnotch@aol.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
In a message dated 8/1/2013 5:43:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,<br>
<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a> writes:<br>
<br>
On 1 Aug 2013 at 10:41, Mike Fisher wrote:<br>
<br>
> My rebuilt engine has been running fine, but my rebuilt AT will not kick<br>
> down to 2nd unless you mash the throttle into the carpet. It used to<br>
kick<br>
> down easier, before you hit the carpet.<br>
<br>
That's all in the adjustment of the throttle cable and the kickdown<br>
switch. Get someone to help you while you do this. You don't need to<br>
have the engine running; you can hear the switch "click" when you get<br>
there.<br>
<br>
<br>
You have to have it installed, before you can adjust it. Mike prefers to<br>
drive with it removed/disabled for some reason. :O<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob 65 Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<br>
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<br>
71 Square-vert under construction<br>
<br>
<br>
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