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<DIV>In a message dated 10/13/2013 10:42:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sawspatch@hotmail.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Bob, <BR>Thanks for joining the party. All great info so far by
everybody, THANKS !!<BR><BR>I was really hoping that someone who had done what
I'm attempting would chime in and it sounds like i have a very similar goal. A
few questions for ya. <BR>#1 your thoughts on the option of doing a weld on
fuel sump Vrs. The sump tank. How big is said sump tank and where would I
locate this tank if I choose that path.<BR>#2 the Ford fuel pump is a good
idea but my FI Kit has a fuel pump included. the stock fuel pump
bracket, Is this welded to the beam or is it a bolt on item? Is this factory
bracket available to purchase , nos or used? <BR>#3 Was it to difficult to run
the fuel lines through the tunnel or Just not worth the effort? I have to say,
having the fuel lines so exposed would make me very nervous.<BR>#4 ALSO, with
my bigger motor I'm adding a oil filter and a oil cooler with fan. I was
hoping the cooler would fit above the transmission attached to the underside
of the body. Any ideas or good solutions for this approach ?? Would you
install the cooler somewhere else, if so, why?<BR><BR>Thanks again for sharing
all of the info and advice for the type3 world. It's all really incredible the
depth and experience that goes into all the subjects covered in this group.
Amazing!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>#1a) You can go either route. The sump welded to the bottom of the tank
would be a clean way to go about it, but it requires a lot of work to make
sure you don't have any leaks. Also, welding on our fuel tanks can cause rust
on the inside, and you really can't seal them very well. By that I mean, that
most of the "sealing kits" only last for a short time, then separate from the
steel. Also, you have to be very careful applying it, as you can easily plug
the drain holes (that keep the cup full of fuel). A surge tank only needs to
be about a pint to a quart in capacity (it keeps fuel in place while doing
some hard turns). This can be made out of almost any type of metal, or even
plastic, since it's on the supply side of the pump.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>#2a) The stock pump bracket is a bolt together set up, that actually
grabs the spot welded seam lips of the front beam (captures it). I'd look in
the Samba Classifieds, or ask IF someone on the list has one (Keith, Jim, or
Mike, might be good choices to ask). You'll need the clamp bracket, along with
the pump mount itself (looks a lot like a coil bracket). Depending on the
diameter of your pump, you might need to add some sort of spacer to help
hold/fill in the gap of the pump mount. But, depending on the pump design, you
might want to mount the pump at the front of the tunnel opening, at the shift
rod access plate.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>#3a) I didn't run my lines inside the tunnel. I ran them under the car,
as it was easier for me to go that route. You can replace the lines inside the
tunnel, but it's a lot of work to do. If you have the big Blue Bentley, they
actually cover replacing the fuel line, but, they show doing so with the body
off the pan, AND replacing just the single fuel line with another line of the
same size (not adding a 2nd one, or going to a larger size). And IF you were
to go that route, you'd want to cut some access holes in the side of the
tunnel, so you'd have access to being able to anchor it in place. </DIV>
<DIV>By running the lines on the outside, under the car (just like most new
cars have), you can easily replace a line, fix a leak, or even go to a larger
diameter tube without a lot of extra work required. Plus, the sump
behind/under the front seats is lower than the bottom of the tunnel, so
they're protected from bottoming out on speed bumps and the like. Up front,
you'd hit the master cylinder skid plate first, but the front beam actually
sits lower than it. On 68 and later cars, there are 2 support beams welded to
the floor and frame head, that protect the lines even more. By studying the
bottom of the pan, I determined that I could run the lines there without any
problems. BUT, watch where you put the screws on the left side (it's better to
be in more off the edge of the tunnel, than outside of the edge), due to the
main center brake line (for the rear brakes) running down that side,
inside the car. :O</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>#4a) You can put the cooler there, and use a thermostatic switch to turn
the cooling fan on or off. That location is a good spot, but you'll need to
use rubber insulators to keep any excess vibration and noise to a minimum.
There's not a lot of sound deadener in that location, so harmonics from the
fan can get loud. ;-)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Yes, we're a very diverse group here, and most of us have either done
something before, or are doing something like you're asking about. Check the
Samba type 3 forum too, as a good portion of us are there as well. ;-)
<DIV>I hope this helps.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>