<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:10pt"><div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">Adam,</SPAN></div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">The comment about auto stickshift tells you the seller is not familiar with Type 3 (either that or somebody did an insane hack). Factor that into your discussions.</SPAN></div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">I've messed with a few of the T3 automatics, including tearing them apart and rebuilding a couple. I drive one every day, and have been for 6 years.</SPAN></div>
<div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">If it's been sitting for more than a few years then your biggest risk is that the internal seals have hardened up. If that's happened then the first thing to go will probably be Reverse and 3rd gear, but it's all fixable. The hard parts in this transmission will not wear out in your lifetime (unless you try to tow it with the axles connected)<VAR id=yui-ie-cursor></VAR>. </SPAN></div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">If the car is still fuel injected then you've already got the right vacuum connection. If it's converted to carbs then you need to make sure they figured out how to hook it up. I've heard that if it's not teed into both manifolds you can get some weird shifting behavior. </SPAN></div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"></SPAN> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"><FONT size=2>Check the mount at the front of the transmission. If that's torn then you will not have a fun time finding a replacement. Make sure the plastic neutral safety switch is working, and isn't broken. It's on the right side of the hump under the shifter. Just pull back the carpet to check it. You should have to pull up on the handle to shift into reverse, but I've seen one that was worn down enough that it would just slide right over the notch. Doesn't keep the car from working, but it's something to watch out for when you're driving.</FONT></SPAN></div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"></SPAN></SPAN> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">These transmissions are super easy to work on even without special tools, and you can forget all that talk about sticks using less gas. Only test drivers drive a stick that well.</SPAN></SPAN></div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"></SPAN></SPAN> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 13px; RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto"></SPAN>As for the rest of the car I'm surprised no one has mentioned checking for nests in the engine. The area between the cylinders and the upper tin in a pancake engine makes a wonderful living space for rats, mice, squirrels... Don't even think of running the car before you make sure the cooling paths are clean. There's about a 1000% chance the battery floor is rusted out unless somebody already replaced it with a fiberglass panel, but you already know that from your bugs.</SPAN></div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">Tony</SPAN></div>
<div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">'70 Fastback AT/FI</SPAN></div>
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<DIV style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ccc 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; MARGIN: 5px 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; HEIGHT: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: #ccc 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #ccc 1px solid; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=hr readonly="true" contenteditable="false"></DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Adam Douglass <one4house@yahoo.com><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> "type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org> <BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Tuesday, October 15, 2013 8:19 AM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> [T3] Automatic Transmission Conversation<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=y_msg_container><BR>Crew,<BR><BR>I want to know more about the type 3 automatic transmission. I am working on a deal that will net me (what I was told was) a 1970 Squareback. It is an Arizona car. It looks great for its age, runs and drives, but needs some work.<BR><BR>In talking about the current state of the car he made mention<BR><BR>"These auto stick<BR>shifts gum up the servo when they sit and need the tranny to be serviced and<BR>cleaned."<BR><BR>I am 100% new to the type 3 auto. Is this statement indeed true as far as only needing servicing, or should I expect bigger problems? Is a general transmission service going to alleviate the issues it has or should I plan on rebuilding this tranny? He made mention of it getting stuck in 3rd gear.<BR><BR>Also, I heard that these transmissions are sensitive to vacuum pressure..... basically I want the "what to look for when buying a type 3 auto." I want to know the signs of a bad tranny. I want to
be able to educate myself real quick.<BR><BR><BR>He also said:<BR><BR>"The engine is a GEX<BR>that the previous owner had done 25-30k miles ago. It was sitting for 3<BR>years in his garage with minimal use. I have had it for 2 years. I start it at<BR>least every 2-3 days with occasional spin around the cudlesac."<BR><BR>I have not heard good things about the GEX rebuilt motors, but this one is still going after 30,000 miles. What else should I look out for with a car that has spent most of its recent life sitting around?<BR><BR>My intention is a daily driver. I am not one to let my classics sit around and collect dust. It is time to get this car in driveable condition and put it on the road.<BR><BR>Class is in session.Educate me, please. A little background on me; I have been working on cars all of my life. I have a history with type 1's to the level of having owned 5 in my lifetime. You won't have to dumb it down for
me.<BR><BR><BR>Adam<BR>-------------- next part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: <<A href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20131015/cceae558/attachment.htm" target=_blank>http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20131015/cceae558/attachment.htm</A>><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>VWType3.Org mailing list - <A href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</A><BR><A href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target=_blank>http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</A><BR>Contact <A href="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org" ymailto="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org">gregm@vwtype3.org</A> if you need help with the list.<BR><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></div></body></html>