<div dir="ltr">You can use a punch or needle-nosed pliers to get the bezel to turn a little. Wiggle the back & front to get it to turn by hand. <br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 9:13 AM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jacob.schroeder@gmail.com" target="_blank">jacob.schroeder@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I'll also add the following:<br>
When I pull out the emergency flasher switch, all 4 blinkers work as they<br>
should and are at the proper (bright!) brightness level. This is true<br>
whether the headlights are turned on or off.<br>
<br>
Based on this, I think I need to find out what pathway is different between<br>
emergency flash mode (in which all 4 blinkers work as they should whether<br>
headlights are on or off), connecting +49 of the relay to terminal 30 of<br>
the fuse box (in which all 4 blinkers work as they should whether<br>
headlights are on or off), and the normal turn signal pathway (in which the<br>
L side fast blinks all the time, and R side fast blinks when headlights are<br>
on).<br>
<br>
One hypothesis is that the emergency switch is bad or the wiring is messed<br>
up there.<br>
<div class="im"><br>
<br>
The fast blink indicates that the circuit is not drawing the expected<br>
> amount of current. Usually this means a burned out bulb. The<br>
> headlight affecting this indicates that the ground for those lights<br>
> is not good. The ground goes to a screw under the cardboard at the<br>
> front corner of the trunk, next to the front corner of the gas tank.<br>
> Loosen that screw, clean it a bit, put some grease on it to slow down<br>
> future corrosion, and retighten. While you're at it, do this on both<br>
> sides.<br>
><br>
><br>
</div>I looked at the grounds in the trunk and they look pretty crummy. In fact,<br>
I had difficulty loosening either screw. I will put some penetrating oil<br>
on those to see if I can loosen them without stripping the heads. But, if<br>
my 4-way emergency blinkers work and the turn signals work when +49 is<br>
connected to 30, wouldn't that indicate that there is no ground problem?<br>
<br>
One other reason which makes me think I may have a ground/wiring issue is<br>
that the needle on the fuel gauge "wiggles" slightly when the turn signals<br>
are acting up. This, of course, does not happen when using the emergency<br>
flashers or when +49 is connected to 30.<br>
<div class="im"><br>
<br>
<br>
> > I performed the test in Bentley (with key off, connecting +49 terminal of<br>
> > emergency flasher to terminal 30 of fuse box and test turn signals) and<br>
> > both left and right work perfectly, at the correct speed, regardless of<br>
> > whether my headlights are on or off. According to Bentley, this means my<br>
> > switch and relay are OK.<br>
><br>
> I wasn't familiar with this test, but notice that the next sentence<br>
> in the bentley says to check the switch if the TSs still do not work.<br>
><br>
><br>
</div>Indeed, the issue I have is that, when performing this test, everything<br>
works great. According to Bentley, this means my flasher and relay are<br>
good. Do the switches ever go bad?<br>
<div class="im"><br>
<br>
<br>
> The test I generally do is to check operation with the 4 way flasher.<br>
> If all the bulbs light equally bright (test at night is best) then<br>
> the bulbs, wiring and relay are okay. That just leaves the TS switch<br>
> as the possible problem. If the headlights affect the test, the front<br>
> grounds are the problem.<br>
><br>
> If you do my test at night, I think you'll find that the RF TS bulb<br>
> is dim, or maybe it just goes out completely when you turn the<br>
> headlights on (or the R headlight flickers in time with the TS relay,<br>
> and the RF TS bulb flashes out of phase with the RR bulb.)<br>
><br>
> What's happening is that the headlight filaments are acting as a<br>
> ground pathway for the RF TS bulb, when the headlights are off. But<br>
> when you turn the headlights on, that path no longer leads to ground.<br>
><br>
><br>
</div>I'll give this test a shot later tonight and check. I did not note any<br>
dimming of the RF TS bulb, but I wasn't paying that close of attention to<br>
it either. I'll report if I find anything.<br>
<div class="im"><br>
<br>
> What is left? Presumably it is wiring, but what am I bypassing by<br>
directly<br>
> connecting +49 of the relay to terminal 30 of the fuse box? Why can't<br>
this<br>
> be a permanent fix?<br>
<br>
The + terminal normally gets power from the 4 way flasher switch,<br>
> from different sources depending on that switch position. The allows<br>
> that circuit to be off when the key is off, unless you pull out the 4<br>
> way flasher switch. Bypassing this permanently could lead to a<br>
> "surprise" at some future point when you're troubleshooting and not<br>
> expecting that circuit to be hot. It could also lead to a dead<br>
> battery if something when wrong with that circuit when the car was<br>
> parked.<br>
><br>
><br>
</div>Your "surprise" point is well taken. I was, in fact, surprised when I<br>
connected +49 of the relay to terminal 30 on the fuse box. When I<br>
connected these, I heard the fuel pump relays click, which is not at all<br>
what I was expecting and, from looking at the wiring diagram, I cannot see<br>
why that happened. Any ideas?<br>
<br>
After I clean up the grounds, I'm starting to think I need to pull my<br>
emergency switch and check all the connections. I am fairly certain that<br>
the PO installed a new wiring harness (unless VW used universal harnesses)<br>
because my wiring harness contains wiring for an AT car, even though mine<br>
is a MT. I also vaguely recall hearing about an engine fire, which may<br>
have necessitated a new harness.<br>
<br>
I do not have the tool to pull the switches, is there a home-made solution<br>
I can use to perform this task?<br>
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