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<DIV>In a message dated 12/26/2013 1:40:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jacob.schroeder@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>I'm sad to hear (although not surprised based on my recent
searches) that<BR>MoFoCo heads are junk. Next time I have the valve
covers off I can see<BR>what MoFoCo started with so far as the head castings
are concerned. I<BR>thought they were rebuilt and were stamped with VW,
but I'm not positive.<BR>Regardless, it sounds like the valves could still be
junk even if the<BR>castings are good (or at least were good before MoFoCo got
them).</FONT></DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Your MOFOCO heads are designed and cast in the USA, and that's
where they've always been made. They basically copied the VW head, but made
some changes to allow for them to be opened up, in both the breathing and size
of the cylinders. This was something that the original VW heads lacked (being
able to be opened up for larger engines without welding).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>That said, I've got a complete MOFOCO engine in my 65 Notch, that
was built on an all aluminum case. The only issues I've ever had with it were
vapor locking the mechanical fuel pump, due to the extra heat the engine case
holds (probably something Keith doesn't think about with his T-4 engine). I've
since gone to an electric pump, and I've had no issues since. I've
also had no issues with valves getting tight (yes I watch them, and note
how much the gaps change) in the 7 1/2 years I've had this engine. However, I
do check them with every oil change, and since the engine is running dino oil,
and has only a strainer, I change it more often.</FONT></DIV><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>If you
feel that the engine is running hot, then I'd look to make sure that ALL of
the cooling tin is in place first. That tin (while seeming small in places)
was there for a reason. VW didn't just add it to make life difficult, they put
it there because they felt it was needed. I'd also look to see if the
foam pad is in place above the oil cooler so that all of the cooling air
passes thru the oil cooler like it was designed to. Also, make sure your
thermostat is working correctly and that the flaps are opening. Make sure
there are no tears in the large cooling bellows, and that both clamps are in
place. I know some of this sounds simple, but you'd be surprised at how many
engines are out there with some or all of these little items missing or
defective (especially in California). :O
<DIV>You might also want to double check your timing, as that has a direct
effect on engine heat (too much and it'll run hot, too little and it'll run
hot). If you have FI, then check the fuel pressure as well. These are all
little things that can effect engine temp.</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry, I got into a bit of a rant, but sometimes things just need to
be said that us "old guys" sometimes take for granted. ;-) I hope this
helps.<BR>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>