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<DIV>In a message dated 1/20/2014 12:59:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rabioklein@aol.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
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<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Ok well I'm going to replace them, so I was actually looking for
any advice In making this an easier situation. ;) but I will make sure I
already know my angle on my suspension to bein with so I can atleast have the
height I have at the moment ;) lower would be preferable but I'm willing to do
the work to get what is want out of the car I'm going to drive. Anyhoo any
advice in the removal - installation would be great or I guess I old just go
to YouTube.</FONT></DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"
color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>About the only advice I can give, is to get the rear of the
car up about 1.5 feet off the ground. I say that, as you'll need that distance
to get the rear trailing arm down enough to clear the double spring plate. I
also remove the clips that hold the rubber brake line in place, to allow the
trailing arm to move. You'll have to remove the outer CV joint bolts (put a
bag over the CV joint to keep dirt out of the joint, and grease off you), as
they need to come off, so you can drop the trailing arm.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Other than that, it's big pry bars and an angle finder to get the
angles on both sides the same. I only say that, as getting the spring plates
to move off the torsion bar (while loaded) is a tough part of the job. It'll
fight you all the way too, until IT gets to a point where it'll just want
to fall off. BTDT before. Just getting it off the lower stop isn't
enough, as it'll still be attached to the torsion bar. It has to "pop
off". Once it's "unloaded", you can take a reading with the angle finder.
If you're staying the same height, then that's the angle you want to finish
with before "re-loading" the arm. If you're lowering, you'll want to "re-set
the spring plate up a notch (or 2) and take a reading.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>For reassembly, I use 3 M10 bolts (treaded the entire length, that
are about 3 to 4 inches long) with some spacers, to help press the
torsion bar cover back in place (the hard part of the entire job). Use talc
powder on the rubber, as it doesn't eat the rubber like petroleum products do.
Once the cover is back on fully, I swap the bolts back to the originals 1 at a
time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>By the way, there used to be some lowering videos on You Tube, but Cugir
(who made them) removed them. It's a real shame, as they were pretty
detailed on doing the job.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As for rear shocks, I like either KYB whites, or KYB gas charged. I
prefer to keep oil shocks on the front, as our cars aren't heavy at that end,
and really don't need a heavy duty shock, or a gas charged shock (it kills the
ride).</DIV>
<DIV>I hope this helps.<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"
color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial></DIV>
<DIV><BR>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie<BR>71
Square-vert under
construction</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>