<div dir="ltr"><div>Thanks Chad.<br><br></div>I wish there was an easy solution. I'm OK putting a torque wrench on those nuts again, but the thing that concerns me is that if a nut or two were loose, I think I would see excess clearance on one or two valves, as opposed to tightening up on only the exhaust valves (my intake valves have been constant on .006).<br>
<br>Jacob<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Chad <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:brakeman22@gmail.com" target="_blank">brakeman22@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Jacob, it doesn't get too hot on top of the cooler. I've seen many people<br>
run that weatherstrip. It's actually just forcing cool air to go through<br>
the tin as opposed to over the cooler.<br>
<br>
If you have another case / motor you're going to use as your rebuild I<br>
would just keep running it and adjusting the valves. Not to assume anything<br>
but you are sure you tightened all the adjusting nuts? Start with the easy<br>
stuff first. Make sure the nuts of the rocker arm studs are torqued<br>
correctly to the head.<br>
<br>
Good luck!<br>
<div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <<br>
<a href="mailto:jacob.schroeder@gmail.com">jacob.schroeder@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 6:52 AM, Jim Adney <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> ><br>
> > It's hard to imagine what would cause all 4 exhaust valves to wear<br>
> > like this, but it's clearly something you need to get to the bottom<br>
> > of. Is your car FI or carbs? What year?<br>
><br>
><br>
> I am running the stock FI set up and it is a 1972. I really do want to get<br>
> to the bottom of this and have been hesitant to keep driving it. It sounds<br>
> great when running, but I don't like to see those clearances tightening<br>
> up. Although, if I rebuild, I will not be reusing any of the engine<br>
> internals from my current engine, so maybe I should just keep running it<br>
> and see what happens. Worst case is I'll be out the money to tow it home<br>
> after it swallows a valve.<br>
><br>
> I don't plan on reusing any of the components because the case is<br>
> universal, as are the heads, and when I rebuild I'm thinking I'd rather<br>
> have my OG case/heads rebuilt.<br>
><br>
> Either way, I'd want to get a<br>
> > really good idea of what kind of gas mileage you're getting. That<br>
> > might have a lot to do with it. If, for example, it's running really<br>
> > rich, you could be getting carbon buildup on the valves, which would<br>
> > make the clearance go away. The solution for that would probably not<br>
> > require removing the engine.<br>
> ><br>
><br>
> I have my mileage log in my car (I left that one at home today), but I<br>
> believe by mileage has been hovering around 20 mpg and that is mostly<br>
> highway type driving. Usually it is in the range of 18-20 mpg. What is<br>
> "normal" for our cars? The day-to-day driving I have been doing on this<br>
> engine is more highway driving than the engine has ever seen. Before this<br>
> year (when I started driving it daily), it was mainly used by me in college<br>
> (~ 10 years ago) to run to the grocery/liquor store twice a week.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> > The lack of the foam seal on top of the oil cooler MIGHT (very small<br>
> > might) have some effect on both left side cylinders, but shouldn't<br>
> > have any effect on the right.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Jim, that is a good point. After searching many many forum posts here and<br>
> on the Samba, it seems like most people notice tightening on one exhaust<br>
> valve (such as #3) rather than all of them in unison at the same pace.<br>
> That is what is concerning me.<br>
><br>
> I have very nice foam pad replacements<br>
> > if you get to that. I'd want to check the thermostat linkage and the<br>
> > cooling ductwork; make sure everything is there, working, adjusted,<br>
> > and tight.<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> Thanks Jim, I will consider that if I get to that point. I do not have the<br>
> thermostat linkage in place (the flaps are removed), but all the tin is in<br>
> place. I had originally planned on pulling the engine to replace the<br>
> thermostat, linkage, and flaps (I have a complete set now), but if I'm<br>
> going to tear it down that far I might as well . . . you get the idea.<br>
><br>
> Jacob<br>
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