<div dir="ltr">I'm in the middle of a stock rebuild as well and I'll just throw in a few tips that I learned from research. There is a washer on that pulley bolt, but I don't think there are any shims.<div><br>
</div><div>1. Good call on the cw crank. DPR machine in Santa Ana CA is a pretty good outfit and they will do an exchange for I think around $150 for a "stock" 69mm cw crank. They have them ready to ship and they are pretty damn good people.</div>
<div><br></div><div>2. I don't think much goes wrong with the actual breather other than the absence of the spring or the brillo pad filter. Depending on if it's a late or an early style there is a hose that goes from the breather to the oil filler tube and I know that hose is usually toast.</div>
<div><br></div><div>3. I would opt for new p/c and if you're not afraid to spend some money (~$400), I would say go for forged mahle's. </div><div><br></div><div>4. I couldn't tell from the pics, but check your thermostat. You can check it in a pot of boiling water, but leave it in the bracket. If it extends too far it will be ruined. If you're missing pieces, hunt the classifieds on TheSamba as you can usually come up with a working set. The thermostat will help get your engine to operating temperature as quickly as possible and that is doubly important when you're running FI. Don't listen to anyone telling you it's not necessary or to just wire the flaps open. It is important!</div>
<div><br></div><div>5. When you're reassembling, make sure you have the spacers that go between the intake runners and the head. Don't use the metal gaskets that come in the seal kit, you'll need some cardboard paper ones. My local VW place carries them in a "universal" size that you can trace your spacer over and cut out. One on each side of the spacer.</div>
<div><br></div><div>6. While you're waiting on your case, it might be a good idea to get your injectors cleaned, jetted and pulsed. <a href="http://www.witchhunter.com">www.witchhunter.com</a> has a pretty easy ordering system where you just print off a sheet fill out what you want and order them. I think they are around $22 an injector and they'll give you a printout of your injectors performance.</div>
<div><br></div><div>7. I'm almost 100% sure that any stock VW cam will work with the FI system. Just make sure you use a stock cam and lifters if you get a new one. </div><div><br></div><div>8. Test your AAR valve and clean it if necessary. You would have noticed a hunting idle if it was staying open after the motor was warmed up. </div>
<div><br></div><div>That's as much as I can think of now. I'll let other guys chime in as far as which parts you can/should reuse. Good luck!</div><div><br></div><div>Chad</div><div><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra">
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 9:15 PM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jacob.schroeder@gmail.com" target="_blank">jacob.schroeder@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
I pulled my engine this past weekend and began the tear down process.<br>
Recall I was having an issue where the clearances on my exhaust valves<br>
began shrinking incredibly fast (from .006 to zero in < 1000 miles, on two<br>
separate occasions).<br>
<br>
Some pictures are here, if anybody is interested:<br>
<a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/110222907858291551656/albums/5855322357304526225" target="_blank">https://plus.google.com/photos/110222907858291551656/albums/5855322357304526225</a><br>
<br>
I have already removed the heads. I noticed that the exhaust valve "face"<br>
was white, whereas the intakes were blackish. Also, once the rockers were<br>
removed, I could see some noticeable variation between a few of the valve<br>
stems. Any other observations from my pictures?<br>
<br>
I have been looking for an excuse to rebuild my engine, so I'm going with a<br>
complete rebuild--I'm glad I did too, the pulley bolt was practically loose<br>
when I put the 30mm socket on it to remove it (and no shim . . . should<br>
there have been one?). This will be fun and I'll have lots of questions.<br>
I'm older, (hopefully) wiser, and more patient now than when I rebuilt it ><br>
15 years ago. I want to stick with a 1600 and the stock set up (except for<br>
a counter-weighted crank).<br>
<br>
First: I have 3 crank case breathers. In selecting which one to use for my<br>
fresh engine, how can I tell which one is "best"? Does anything ever go<br>
wrong with these?<br>
<br>
Second: For a complete engine rebuild, which parts are worth re-using? I<br>
have the Wilson, Muir, and Bentley books, but parts quality & availability<br>
have changed since then. I'm particularly curious about rods, pistons,<br>
cylinders, cam, lifters, and pushrods. I have 3 "parts engines" in various<br>
states of tear down and I'm curious whether it is worth pulling those<br>
parts, lugging them all to my machine shop guy, and having him sort it out<br>
or whether good new parts are available.<br>
<br>
Third: Thoughts on whether I should send in one of my 1972 T-3 cases or<br>
whether I should use a newer universal case (the one I just pulled)?<br>
<br>
I'm sure more questions will come.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Jacob<br>
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