<div dir="ltr">I forgot to mention that I am running aftermarket carbs. I have a set of DRLA's on there now. Before it was a set of 34 ICTs. Although the vacuum signal did change, and it made a difference, I still have the same shift issue that I have always had whether it has been the ICTs or the DRLAs. I still think I need to rebuild the valve body.<div>
<br></div><div>Adam</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Craigs List <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:craigslistcsprings@gmail.com" target="_blank">craigslistcsprings@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Jim,<div><br></div><div>I am going to take this one step at a time.</div><div><br></div><div>As far a "late" vs "early VM, I have a late one. I actually have 3 of them. I also have an early one with the yellow stripe. I know that they are late VM's because they were sent with the type 4 automatic that I got when I was swapping out the automatic because of killing the differential case.</div>
<div><br></div><div>There was a noticeable improvement with shifting when I went from the "yellow" VM to the "brown" one, but it still didn't like to shift at the correct point.</div><div><br></div>
<div>As far as adjusting the VM's, this also didn't help with the shift points.</div><div><br></div><div>Now on to the valve body and governor. I have kept them consistent throughout all o f the swaps. I did kill the governor that was originally with this particular valve body, but I dissembled the broken governor and moved the weights to the usable governor. This, to me, means that I still have the correct governor with the correct valve body.</div>
<div><br></div><div>All of the VM's I have used have been checked for ATF leaks through the adjustment screw. One was bad and thrown away. The other 3 I have are good.</div><div><br></div><div>This is all starting to point to a valve body rebuild in my eyes. I have had the same problem throughout with a multitude of VMs and 2 different automatics. I think I will look into a valve body rebuild as my next course of action. What do your rebuild kits cost?</div>
<div><br></div><div>Adam </div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:00 AM, Jim Adney <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>On 2 May 2014 at 7:33, Craigs List wrote:<br>
<br>
> I have a question for those with automatic transmissions. Do all of us have<br>
> to shift with fluctuation of the gas pedal? My automatic likes to shift<br>
> into second far to early and never wants to shift into 3rd. I have to let<br>
> of the gas completely to coax it into shifting.<br>
<br>
</div>It seems odd that one shift happens early and the other happens late,<br>
but the fact that blipping the throttle helps the 2-3 shift tells us<br>
that this is related to the vacuum modulator in some way. No, this is<br>
not normal.<br>
<br>
First, what year is your Type 3? The '72-3 ATs were different from<br>
the earlier ones, and they take a different VM. So the place to start<br>
is to make SURE you have the right VM and that it is adjusted<br>
correctly. The AT chapter of the Bentley manual covers the adjustment<br>
of the VM. The pressure they give there is correct for the early<br>
years; if you have a late AT, I'll have to dig for the number.<br>
<br>
You don't need the fancy pressure setup from the AT shop, but you<br>
will need a 50 psi pressure gauge that will screw into the 10 mm port<br>
on the side of the AT. I find that a 1/8" NPT gauge will screw in<br>
there nicely.<br>
<br>
Genuine VW VMs will have the part number stamped on the face of the<br>
VM. Early FI VMs end in A with a yellow paint stripe, while the late<br>
ones end in C and have a brown paint stripe. Genuine VMs adjust with<br>
an Allen wrench. If yours takes a small screwdriver, it's a generic<br>
aftermarket replacement and it will probably help if you install a<br>
correct one in there, especially if this is a late AT.<br>
<br>
If your car has been converted to aftermarket carbs, this may be<br>
part of the problem, as the vacuum signal will be different from that<br>
which the VM was designed for.<br>
<br>
You should also pull the vacuum hose off the VM and see how much, and<br>
what color, oil drains out of there. A small amount of dirty black<br>
oil is normal and is just condensation from the intake manifold. If<br>
you get a lot of red oil, that's ATF and that means the VM is leaking<br>
and should be replaced (and adjusted.) Check the condition of the<br>
hose to make sure it is sealing well at both ends. Hose clamps should<br>
not be necessary, but the hose should be snug on its connection at<br>
each end.<br>
<br>
Finally, the VM sticks down slightly below the AT pan, so it's<br>
possible that it's been hit and bent. If it's bent, you could try to<br>
straighten it, but you may have to replace it. A bent VM can be<br>
sticky, and this might also explain your problem.<br>
<br>
If you have to replace your VM, keep in mind that ATF will pour out<br>
of that hole when you remove the old one. Have the new one ready and<br>
don't forget the alum sealing washer.<br>
<br>
Depending on what year you have, I may have a new VM if you need one.<br>
<span><font color="#888888"><br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
</font></span><div><div><br>
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