<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">Jim Adney,</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">We used Febi lifters, German made. Lloyd said he can see them thru the sump hole, and they are OK. We used as many German made parts as we could.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">The push rods also looked OK when we took them out, as did the rocker arms. When put back on with the measuring tool in place of the pushrod, the valve cover(? the part that moves on the rocker arm that opens and closes like a seesaw ?) worked fine as we turned by hand. He says he was very careful about setting up the valve geometry (this is all getting a bit above my head), and is hoping he didn't make a mistake. Oddly enough, he is having the exact same problem on his bus, only there it is ALL the pushrods that are getting "shorter".</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">We bought a refurbished camshaft when we rebuilt the engine, and he has the same kind, from the same place, in his bus. He is now wondering if the Type III uses a different camshaft or has a different setup, altho I don't see how it could be a wrong CS, since the engine ran so well for over 5 years.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">We are going to get 2 longer PR's, and if this starts to happen again, we will pull the engine :( This makes me extremely unhappy.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">Lori</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 1:52 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
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1. Out of the office (Richard Hirsch)<br>
2. Re: Valve woes (Keith Park)<br>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 16:43:10 -0400<br>
From: "Richard Hirsch" <<a href="mailto:rhirsch@loanonelender.com">rhirsch@loanonelender.com</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: [T3] Out of the office<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:11405191643.AA3068640178@loanonelender.com">11405191643.AA3068640178@loanonelender.com</a>><br>
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Thank you for contacting me. I am out of the office Monday May 19 through Friday May 23. I will have access to email and will respond as time permits. Should you need to reach me sooner please call <a href="tel:614-212-1422" value="+16142121422">614-212-1422</a> and I will answer if possible. If not, please leave a message with your contact information and I will return your call.<br>
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<br>
Loan One Mortgage, Inc.<br>
Richard A Hirsch<br>
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Westerville, OH 43081<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 20:13:36 -0400<br>
From: "Keith Park" <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Valve woes<br>
Message-ID: <1D346881CF19456C917082DC07DCECC2@NORM><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
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Other things to consider are valve train geometry, if you have deviated from<br>
stock at all the geometry needs to be set up, if its not things can go bad<br>
very fast. Using the proper amount of ZDDP? That's also quite important<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
Top Notch Restorations<br>
<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><br>
<a href="http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm" target="_blank">http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm</a><br>
71 Squareback "Hothe"<br>
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<br>
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"<br>
87 golf "Winterat"<br>
93 RX7 "Redstur"<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>]<br>
On Behalf Of Jim Adney<br>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2014 11:53 AM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Valve woes<br>
<br>
On 18 May 2014 at 11:56, Fiesta Cranberry wrote:<br>
<br>
> Now, I'm having valve problems. The # 1& 3 valves keep getting really<br>
> loose. The rocker arms have almost no resistance when when I move them,<br>
> they're floppy. It's like the pushrods are too short, even tho we<br>
measured<br>
> them. We replaced the pushrods with longer ones (yes, we measured) and<br>
now<br>
> it's happened again. They are not bent or damaged in any visible way. My<br>
> friend John thinks it needs a valve job, like maybe the valves are stuck.<br>
> But it gets such light use, that's hard to believe on a new engine.<br>
<br>
There are no situations where longer pushrods would be a cure for a<br>
problem like this. You've gotten a few good suggestions for things to<br>
check, but my best guess would be that the new lifters you installed<br>
with the rebuild were too soft and are wearing down quickly. I hope<br>
your camshaft is still good, but that is also a suspect since 1 & 3<br>
use the same cam lobes.<br>
<br>
It's vaguely possible that you have some valves that are sticking,<br>
but if you've watched them move up and down, and didn't see anything<br>
unusual, I think you can forget that possibility. If you want to<br>
really eliminate that possibility, check the cylinder compressions<br>
all around. Valves that are sticking or are bent will ruin the<br>
compression on that cylinder.<br>
<br>
I suggest that you start by checking the nuts that hold the rocker<br>
arms in place. That's probably not the problem, since you've had them<br>
off already to replace pushrods.<br>
<br>
Then using a real dial indicator, measure the lift on all 8 valves.<br>
Do this after readjusting the valves. Write down each one, then<br>
compare exhaust lifts and intake lifts. Exhausts will be smaller than<br>
intakes, but all the exhausts should be about the same and all the<br>
intakes should be about the same.<br>
<br>
If you find that all your exhaust lifts are about the same and all<br>
your intake lifts are about the same, then your cam is still good and<br>
the lifters are the problem. If you find that the 1 & 3 lifts are a<br>
lot smaller than the 2 & 4 lifts, then your cam is also shot.<br>
<br>
Either way, repair requires a complete engine teardown and<br>
replacement of the bad parts. If it's the lifters, that's the best<br>
news, but you MUST buy GOOD replacements. They are not easy to find<br>
and there's no sure way for people like us to know the difference. I<br>
buy from Berg just because I know he knows what to buy. It's best to<br>
replace the lifters ASAP, so they do minimal damage to the cam.<br>
<br>
BTW, my very first engine rebuild ended up the same way: soft lifters<br>
that wore quickly. In my case, I saw rapid wear on all 8 valves, so<br>
this makes me think you may also have a cam problem. A call to Berg<br>
revealed that most lifters out there were too soft. Gene gave me the<br>
Rockwell hardness numbers and I was able to verify that my old ones<br>
were exactly as soft as he had predicted. I was lucky to have access<br>
to a hardness tester at that time.<br>
<br>
There's a lesson here: New parts are not always better. In fact, they<br>
are often inferior.<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
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End of <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> Digest, Vol 44, Issue 25<br>
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</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br>"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally won out over it."<br> ---Elwood P. Dowd<br>
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