<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">OK, thanx.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Jun 7, 2014 at 7:31 AM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: AAR Adjustment? (Max Welton)<br>
2. more questions on The Baroness (Fiesta Cranberry)<br>
3. Re: AAR Adjustment? (Daniel K. Du Vall)<br>
4. Re: more questions on The Baroness (Daniel K. Du Vall)<br>
5. sticky starter revealed. (Keith Park)<br>
6. Re: more questions on The Baroness (Keith Park)<br>
7. Re: more questions on The Baroness (Jim Adney)<br>
8. Re: sticky starter revealed. (Soren Jacobsen)<br>
9. Re: sticky starter revealed. (Brion Sabbatino)<br>
10. Re: sticky starter revealed. (Dave Hall)<br>
11. FI Dizzy for Carbs (Craigs List)<br>
12. Re: sticky starter revealed. (Keith Park)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 15:17:23 -0700 (PDT)<br>
From: Max Welton <<a href="mailto:max_welton_2k@yahoo.com">max_welton_2k@yahoo.com</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] AAR Adjustment?<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:1402093043.44572.YahooMailBasic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com">1402093043.44572.YahooMailBasic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.maxwelton2k.net/squareback68/IMG_8159.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.maxwelton2k.net/squareback68/IMG_8159.jpg</a><br>
<br>
Darn. Ran out of hose.<br>
<br>
Guess I'll just HAVE to drive to the store. :-D<br>
<br>
Max Welton<br>
<a href="http://www.maxwelton2k.net/" target="_blank">http://www.maxwelton2k.net/</a><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 16:14:44 -0700<br>
From: Fiesta Cranberry <<a href="mailto:fiestacranberry@gmail.com">fiestacranberry@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: Volkswagen <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAD=<a href="mailto:5u%2BJJRSnrWRkqTjZ5es6C72uJrCcQRoRBnfsdhhH8g1mysQ@mail.gmail.com">5u+JJRSnrWRkqTjZ5es6C72uJrCcQRoRBnfsdhhH8g1mysQ@mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi guys,<br>
I was just talking to my bf's coworker, who happens to be a VW nut. He<br>
told me some interesting stuff.<br>
<br>
He says that if it is the camshaft, it may have been caused by a bad rebore<br>
of the case. So, the case would have to be sent out and rebored again. He<br>
thinks it would be better to buy a new block, instead of fixing what's in<br>
there. What do you guys think about that?<br>
<br>
We haven't taken the engine out yet. I need a place to stash The Baroness<br>
for a month while Lloyd works on the engine in my garage.<br>
<br>
Lori & The Baroness, '71 SB Automatic carbs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally<br>
won out over it."<br>
---Elwood P. Dowd<br>
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<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 00:40:30 +0000<br>
From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <<a href="mailto:dduvall@1peter4-10.org">dduvall@1peter4-10.org</a>><br>
To: "<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>" <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] AAR Adjustment?<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:64ddb3c2eeb142a3a087fa5520a9c934@BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com">64ddb3c2eeb142a3a087fa5520a9c934@BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com</a>><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Nice!<br>
<br>
Hmm something wrong with that picture ;-)<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>] On Behalf Of Max Welton<br>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:17 PM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] AAR Adjustment?<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.maxwelton2k.net/squareback68/IMG_8159.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.maxwelton2k.net/squareback68/IMG_8159.jpg</a><br>
<br>
Darn. Ran out of hose.<br>
<br>
Guess I'll just HAVE to drive to the store. :-D<br>
<br>
Max Welton<br>
<a href="http://www.maxwelton2k.net/" target="_blank">http://www.maxwelton2k.net/</a><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
VWType3.Org mailing list - <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a> <a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><br>
Contact <a href="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org">gregm@vwtype3.org</a> if you need help with the list.<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 00:43:59 +0000<br>
From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <<a href="mailto:dduvall@1peter4-10.org">dduvall@1peter4-10.org</a>><br>
To: "<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>" <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:319d5f31ec7542ffbe9a2f227e912de6@BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com">319d5f31ec7542ffbe9a2f227e912de6@BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com</a>><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Before jumping to any conclusions get the motor apart and have it inspected by someone in the know. You will just drive yourself nuts speculating what's in there till you do.<br>
<br>
Daniel Du Vall<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>] On Behalf Of Fiesta Cranberry<br>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 6:15 PM<br>
To: Volkswagen<br>
Subject: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
<br>
Hi guys,<br>
I was just talking to my bf's coworker, who happens to be a VW nut. He told me some interesting stuff.<br>
<br>
He says that if it is the camshaft, it may have been caused by a bad rebore of the case. So, the case would have to be sent out and rebored again. He thinks it would be better to buy a new block, instead of fixing what's in there. What do you guys think about that?<br>
<br>
We haven't taken the engine out yet. I need a place to stash The Baroness for a month while Lloyd works on the engine in my garage.<br>
<br>
Lori & The Baroness, '71 SB Automatic carbs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally won out over it."<br>
---Elwood P. Dowd<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 21:34:49 -0400<br>
From: "Keith Park" <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
Message-ID: <45EBD4B8D90E4AACAF15C6B3179454C3@NORM><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
A couple years ago I put a starter relay on he 71 because when the car was<br>
in hot soak it wouldn't engage.<br>
<br>
This solved that problem then it started sticking engaged, I did do some<br>
testing and eliminated the relay from the circuit and still had the problem<br>
but at some point the starter and solenoid got changed over too to no<br>
avail.. I finally had some time to noodle with it and swapped out the relay<br>
and walla! No sticky starter but the engagement was slow. I pulled apart<br>
the relay (old headlight relay with contacts paralleled) and found they were<br>
really whipped, not enough of a relay for this application.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
So I get an "Automotive" rated 50A relay (solenoid current is about 35A)<br>
from digikey, that works great. for TWO weeks, I got off the Northway on the<br>
way to the camp and stopped to answer nature's call before I hit the bumpy<br>
dirt road with the trailer on there and ended up getting pissed twice, the<br>
second time with a NO start, no click, NOTHING. Reached underneath (NEVER<br>
touch the starter without making damn sure its in Neutral and the E brake<br>
ON) and pulled the lead off the relay and put it back on the solenoid. she<br>
starts!<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Pulled the relay apart. the spring material for the moving contact is spot<br>
welded in ONE spot to the top of the relay frame, that spot weld had failed,<br>
and what's worse is that failure mode can jamb your starter on without<br>
releasing it. I got lucky! I took another one of these relays, (I never buy<br>
just one) and soldered the bloody thing on there so maybe now I can find the<br>
NEXT failure mode of this kind of relay but my warm N fuzzy is gone. Anyone<br>
have a good proven source for high current relays in automotive<br>
applications? Something ROBUST? I really cant be having problems like this<br>
when the car and trailer are all stuffed and Im in the middle of nowhere.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 21:40:14 -0400<br>
From: "Keith Park" <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
Message-ID: <C09BCF1399084506B63A1EC3D7281654@NORM><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Doubtful,you'd hear the gear whine if they got the align bore off and your<br>
oil pressure would be in the toilet. If you ran it without an oil with ZDDP<br>
in it, especially if you broke it in without the ZDDP that is likely what<br>
took out the cam, the other thing you need to do on startup is keep it<br>
running about 2500 RPM WITHOUT letting it idle to break in the cam.<br>
<br>
You should be able to see cam problems thru the sump though....<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
Top Notch Restorations<br>
<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><br>
<a href="http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm" target="_blank">http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm</a><br>
71 Squareback "Hothe"<br>
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<br>
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"<br>
87 golf "Winterat"<br>
93 RX7 "Redstur"<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>]<br>
On Behalf Of Fiesta Cranberry<br>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 7:15 PM<br>
To: Volkswagen<br>
Subject: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
<br>
Hi guys,<br>
I was just talking to my bf's coworker, who happens to be a VW nut. He<br>
told me some interesting stuff.<br>
<br>
He says that if it is the camshaft, it may have been caused by a bad rebore<br>
of the case. So, the case would have to be sent out and rebored again. He<br>
thinks it would be better to buy a new block, instead of fixing what's in<br>
there. What do you guys think about that?<br>
<br>
We haven't taken the engine out yet. I need a place to stash The Baroness<br>
for a month while Lloyd works on the engine in my garage.<br>
<br>
Lori & The Baroness, '71 SB Automatic carbs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally<br>
won out over it."<br>
---Elwood P. Dowd<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 21:51:39 -0500<br>
From: "Jim Adney" <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] more questions on The Baroness<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:53927E3B.22873.2E0862B@jadney.vwtype3.org">53927E3B.22873.2E0862B@jadney.vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<br>
<br>
On 6 Jun 2014 at 16:14, Fiesta Cranberry wrote:<br>
<br>
> He says that if it is the camshaft, it may have been caused by a bad rebore<br>
> of the case. So, the case would have to be sent out and rebored again. He<br>
> thinks it would be better to buy a new block, instead of fixing what's in<br>
> there. What do you guys think about that?<br>
<br>
I think you need to examine what you find in there and consider all<br>
the possibilities. If the cam bearings are shot, then the case may be<br>
warped to the point where repair costs more than it's worth. If the<br>
bearings are fine, but the cam lobe is worn down, then I'd limit my<br>
thinking to bad cam/lifter problems.<br>
<br>
It's possible for the center web of the case to be pushed out,<br>
leaving a gap between the 2 sides of that web. That's the web that<br>
supports the #2 main bearing. That web also supplies oil from the<br>
left side of the case to the right, so a gap there will mean an<br>
almost complete loss of lubrication to the right side of the engine,<br>
along with low overall oil pressure everywhere else. If that web is<br>
warped, it CAN be repaired by RIMCO, but the cost mounts and it means<br>
new cam and main bearings. It's also possible that those oversize<br>
bearings are now impossible to find. If anyone has them RIMCO<br>
probably does. I've had this repair done, and it worked out okay, but<br>
I sold the car with that engine and don't know how well it faired<br>
over the long run.<br>
<br>
To check for this problem, take everything apart, remove all the<br>
bearing shells, and bolt the case halves together with just the 6<br>
main bearing studs, properly torqued. Reach in there and see if you<br>
can still slip a .002" feeler gauge between the 2 sides of the #2<br>
main bearing web, just above and below the crank bore. If the feeler<br>
gauge will slip in, the case is warped.<br>
<br>
The case RIMCO repaired for me had .020-.030" of gap there.<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 22:02:31 -0700<br>
From: Soren Jacobsen <<a href="mailto:snj@blef.org">snj@blef.org</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:EBFDCDD3-5BE6-448C-A1DA-221D06BB768C@blef.org">EBFDCDD3-5BE6-448C-A1DA-221D06BB768C@blef.org</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
On Jun 6, 2014, at 6:34 PM, Keith Park <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> So I get an "Automotive" rated 50A relay (solenoid current is about 35A)<br>
> from digikey, that works great. for TWO weeks, I got off the Northway on the<br>
> way to the camp and stopped to answer nature's call before I hit the bumpy<br>
> dirt road with the trailer on there and ended up getting pissed twice, the<br>
> second time with a NO start, no click, NOTHING. Reached underneath (NEVER<br>
> touch the starter without making damn sure its in Neutral and the E brake<br>
> ON) and pulled the lead off the relay and put it back on the solenoid. she<br>
> starts!<br>
><br>
> Pulled the relay apart. the spring material for the moving contact is spot<br>
> welded in ONE spot to the top of the relay frame, that spot weld had failed,<br>
> and what's worse is that failure mode can jamb your starter on without<br>
> releasing it. I got lucky! I took another one of these relays, (I never buy<br>
> just one) and soldered the bloody thing on there so maybe now I can find the<br>
> NEXT failure mode of this kind of relay but my warm N fuzzy is gone. Anyone<br>
> have a good proven source for high current relays in automotive<br>
> applications? Something ROBUST? I really cant be having problems like this<br>
> when the car and trailer are all stuffed and Im in the middle of nowhere.<br>
<br>
Yikes! What specific relay is this so we know what to avoid?<br>
<br>
I've had good success with the Tyco 1432873-1, for 40A/6V applications (why anyone would want a VW new enough to feature a 12V electrical system from the factory is beyond me).<br>
<br>
Soren<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 23:22:12 -0600<br>
From: Brion Sabbatino <<a href="mailto:brionsab@msn.com">brionsab@msn.com</a>><br>
To: type3 <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
Message-ID: <BLU170-W115941E38DA452EC31DA28BCD2F0@phx.gbl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
I have had good luck using the Ford truck relay. Buy the best quality that NAPA sells. They seem to last me for many years.<br>
Brion SS. Utah<br>
<br>
> From: <a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><br>
> To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 21:34:49 -0400<br>
> Subject: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> A couple years ago I put a starter relay on he 71 because when the car was<br>
> in hot soak it wouldn't engage.<br>
><br>
> This solved that problem then it started sticking engaged, I did do some<br>
> testing and eliminated the relay from the circuit and still had the problem<br>
> but at some point the starter and solenoid got changed over too to no<br>
> avail.. I finally had some time to noodle with it and swapped out the relay<br>
> and walla! No sticky starter but the engagement was slow. I pulled apart<br>
> the relay (old headlight relay with contacts paralleled) and found they were<br>
> really whipped, not enough of a relay for this application.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> So I get an "Automotive" rated 50A relay (solenoid current is about 35A)<br>
> from digikey, that works great. for TWO weeks, I got off the Northway on the<br>
> way to the camp and stopped to answer nature's call before I hit the bumpy<br>
> dirt road with the trailer on there and ended up getting pissed twice, the<br>
> second time with a NO start, no click, NOTHING. Reached underneath (NEVER<br>
> touch the starter without making damn sure its in Neutral and the E brake<br>
> ON) and pulled the lead off the relay and put it back on the solenoid. she<br>
> starts!<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Pulled the relay apart. the spring material for the moving contact is spot<br>
> welded in ONE spot to the top of the relay frame, that spot weld had failed,<br>
> and what's worse is that failure mode can jamb your starter on without<br>
> releasing it. I got lucky! I took another one of these relays, (I never buy<br>
> just one) and soldered the bloody thing on there so maybe now I can find the<br>
> NEXT failure mode of this kind of relay but my warm N fuzzy is gone. Anyone<br>
> have a good proven source for high current relays in automotive<br>
> applications? Something ROBUST? I really cant be having problems like this<br>
> when the car and trailer are all stuffed and Im in the middle of nowhere.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Keith<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 11:05:23 +0100<br>
From: "Dave Hall" <<a href="mailto:dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk">dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
Message-ID: <86C98B9F0C5C4F06A6DE2990D2CAC564@DavidPC><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
"I've had good success with the Tyco 1432873-1, for 40A/6V applications (why<br>
anyone would want a VW new enough to feature a 12V electrical system from<br>
the factory is beyond me).<br>
<br>
Soren "<br>
<br>
Probably just wants to drive it at night! ;-)<br>
<br>
In all honesty, the upright Type 3 6V headlights were OK when they came out,<br>
and far superior to the symmetric 6V sloping Beetle ones of my '59, but that<br>
originally had 35/35W bulbs which aren't a match for higher powered ones<br>
with a twin relay. The 180W generator back then limits the power available<br>
on a wet night though!<br>
<br>
<br>
Dave<br>
UK VW Tytpe 3&4 Club<br>
====================<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 07:48:34 -0600<br>
From: Craigs List <<a href="mailto:craigslistcsprings@gmail.com">craigslistcsprings@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: [T3] FI Dizzy for Carbs<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAF3AfUbqeuAAc=YSyoWeA2q00baJ6+3D0cXe_9115J+kW=<a href="mailto:DUqw@mail.gmail.com">DUqw@mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I'm back.......<br>
<br>
Mr Welton and I were discussing distributors last night. As of yesterday I<br>
got the new Dell 36's going on my squareback. Although they run better,I<br>
still have the stumble off of the line and a stumble at low rpm<br>
accreditation.<br>
<br>
When looking at the numbers on my dizzy I finally realized that I have a fi<br>
svda distributor. (Thanks Max) I was wondering what the differences between<br>
the fi distributor and a dizzy for carbs are? Is the curve different? Would<br>
funding a distributor designed for carbs help a lot, a little or would it<br>
be a waste of time?<br>
<br>
My current distributor is a 311 905 205 L. The charts say this is a svda<br>
off of a 1969 fi type 3. Through the recommendation of Mr. Welton, I gave<br>
it a little timing yesterday and this indeed helped. I was short of time,<br>
so I just gave it a 1/4" counter clockwise turn to see what would happen.<br>
Today or tomorrow I am going to break out the gun and see where I am<br>
exactly. Timing instructions for this one are 0* at idle with the vacuum<br>
can capped.<br>
<br>
Any more pointers from you guys would be greatly appreciated.<br>
<br>
Adam<br>
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<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 10:31:02 -0400<br>
From: "Keith Park" <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
Message-ID: <1D8F71EFEBEF41D88577FEF10CA16CCA@NORM><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Digikey Z-2716-ND<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
Top Notch Restorations<br>
<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><br>
<a href="http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm" target="_blank">http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm</a><br>
71 Squareback "Hothe"<br>
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<br>
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"<br>
87 golf "Winterat"<br>
93 RX7 "Redstur"<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>]<br>
On Behalf Of Soren Jacobsen<br>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2014 1:03 AM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] sticky starter revealed.<br>
<br>
On Jun 6, 2014, at 6:34 PM, Keith Park <<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> So I get an "Automotive" rated 50A relay (solenoid current is about 35A)<br>
> from digikey, that works great. for TWO weeks, I got off the Northway on<br>
the<br>
> way to the camp and stopped to answer nature's call before I hit the<br>
bumpy<br>
> dirt road with the trailer on there and ended up getting pissed twice, the<br>
> second time with a NO start, no click, NOTHING. Reached underneath (NEVER<br>
> touch the starter without making damn sure its in Neutral and the E brake<br>
> ON) and pulled the lead off the relay and put it back on the solenoid.<br>
she<br>
> starts!<br>
><br>
> Pulled the relay apart. the spring material for the moving contact is spot<br>
> welded in ONE spot to the top of the relay frame, that spot weld had<br>
failed,<br>
> and what's worse is that failure mode can jamb your starter on without<br>
> releasing it. I got lucky! I took another one of these relays, (I never<br>
buy<br>
> just one) and soldered the bloody thing on there so maybe now I can find<br>
the<br>
> NEXT failure mode of this kind of relay but my warm N fuzzy is gone.<br>
Anyone<br>
> have a good proven source for high current relays in automotive<br>
> applications? Something ROBUST? I really cant be having problems like<br>
this<br>
> when the car and trailer are all stuffed and Im in the middle of nowhere.<br>
<br>
Yikes! What specific relay is this so we know what to avoid?<br>
<br>
I've had good success with the Tyco 1432873-1, for 40A/6V applications (why<br>
anyone would want a VW new enough to feature a 12V electrical system from<br>
the factory is beyond me).<br>
<br>
Soren<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
<br>
<br>
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End of <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> Digest, Vol 45, Issue 7<br>
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</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br>"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally won out over it."<br> ---Elwood P. Dowd<br>
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