<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 11.00.9600.17280"></HEAD>
<BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000"
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 rightMargin=7 topMargin=7><FONT id=role_document
color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/20/2014 5:19:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
fiestacranberry@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>Just heard from the guy looking at The B. Just like you guys
said, he<BR>thinks it's the camshaft and/or lifters. Here's what he
said:<BR><BR><BR>I have some news… unfortunately it isn’t very
good. I checked the valve<BR>heights and performed a leak down
test. They looked pretty good. Fairly<BR>consistent and were
sealing very well. There is a bit of height difference<BR>between the
valve stems but that is pretty normal. Some valve seats need<BR>to be
cut more than others which makes the valves sit a bit deeper or<BR>shallower
in the head. What is apparent is that the lifters for the #1 and<BR>#3
exhaust valves sit closer to the center line of the case than the
other<BR>lifters. This means there is definitely an issue with the cam
or lifters<BR>which requires a full tear down of the engine. I am not
exactly sure why<BR>this is, but I have seen new and reground cams with poor
grind quality that<BR>results in damage to either the lobe or the lifter or
both.<BR><BR>You do have a couple options regarding a possible rebuild
though. It will<BR>be less expensive to buy a long block from a
reasonable builder and install<BR>it rather than have me tear down your block
and re-build. Of course an<BR>inexpensive engine uses cheap parts that
may lack in quality, but they do<BR>build a lot of them and they seem to run
just fine. I am friends with the<BR>machinist at Tassi Inc. and he would
be sure to pay close attention to<BR>anything he built for me. When I
build an engine, even if re-using your<BR>pistons, cylinders and heads, I
check everything.. Many hours of just<BR>measuring bore diameters, taper
and round, checking deck heights, lapping<BR>cylinders, back cutting valves,
crank and rod journal condition and size<BR>both in the case and on the
forgings. Regardless of which re-build option<BR>you choose, there will
be some additional costs either way. The rocker<BR>assemblies and push
rods will need to be replaced with stock units, there<BR>may be some hoses,
bolts, caps or seals that also need to be replaced.<BR><BR>Purchased Long
Block around $1000.00<BR>Additional material, gaskets, oil, tune up
budget $200.00<BR>R&R labor allow 12-16 hours if things go smoothly
$800.00<BR><BR>If I tear down your engine and rebuild you are looking at
around 32-40<BR>hours of time $2000.00 plus materials<BR>Materials TBD, assume
new bearings, crank, cam, rods. New cam and lifters,<BR>reuse rods,
crank and case (if they measure out), gasket kit. Hone and<BR>re-ring
cylinders, re-cut valves and seats..<BR><BR>I think his prices are very
reasonable. I just need to think about all<BR>this. Even if I go
with a new longblock, it's still around $2000. Being<BR>disabled, that's
a lot of money for me. OTOH, I've had The B. for 20<BR>years; the only
car I've ever owned. And probably the only one I ever will<BR>own, given
my finances. My only other option is to sell her, as is.
I<BR>still have the complete fuel injection system, along with a lot of
other<BR>extra parts, even a spare door! What do you think I could get
for her in a<BR>non-working condition?<BR><BR>What do you guys think? I
could really use some advice, taking in to<BR>consideration my economic
condition.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>You won't get near enough money with the car basically un-driveable.
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If the guy is willing to rebuild your old engine, I'd probably go that
route, as it sounds like he knows what he's doing. Plus, he'll be checking
everything over (all of your old parts). </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>A purchased longblock while sounding cheap, is an alternative, but like
he mentioned it's built with cheap parts. I don't think it would take 12 to 16
hours to convert it over, but that's certainly a possibility, mainly due to
most engine builders installing the distributor drive in the wrong location
(they're used to building type 1s, not type 3s). That would need to be
corrected, and could take some time.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This is just my take on it, and I'm sure others will chime in as well.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65
Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty<BR>64 T-34 Ghia aka
Wolfie<BR></FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>