<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 11.00.9600.17344"></HEAD>
<BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000"
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 rightMargin=7 topMargin=7><FONT id=role_document
color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV>In a message dated 11/21/2014 12:46:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cscsheridan@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>What
components are in play when an automatic d-jetronic fastback is at<BR>idle.
This is after initial starting and warm up, after a few minutes of<BR>driving,
waiting at a stop light, waiting in traffic. What specific<BR>components work
in harmony to produce a smooth idle? Aside from the<BR>installation and proper
configuration of the parts (plugs, points,<BR>condensor, cap, rotor, wires)
valves set, timing at zero, rpm's adjust as<BR>close to 900 rpm as possible,
but what causes the hunting, missing and<BR>stumbling? What D-jetronic parts
are in play during a warmed up idle<BR>circuit?</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>The AAR (Aux Air Regulator) is the main item, as it should be closed,
or close to it after 5 minutes. The AT requires an idle speed of 950 rpm in
neutral for it's setting. But once in gear (warmed up), the torque converter
will drag the idle speed down to around 800-850 rpms. Keep in mind that IF the
AAR is still open, and you've got the idle screw set to hold 900 rpm, that it's
possible that once it's fully warmed up that your idle speed can be lower
than 800 rpms, and can cause it not to be smooth. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>However, if the engine is cycling up and down (rpms rise, then engine
acts like it shuts off and drops in speed then comes back to the higher revs
again), you're above 1100 rpms on your idle setting. This can also be described
as " a hunting idle".</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Missing and stumbling are related to a distributor that is not advancing.
When you had the cap off, did you remove the rotor, and add 3 drops of motor oil
to the felt pad under it? If not, then your mechanical advance isn't
getting lubed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Keep in mind that all parts of the engine (mechanical, ignition, and
FI) all play a role in how well the engine functions. Keep in mind that
any vacuum leaks are not tolerated in the system, and can cause some of the
problems you've listed as well, since the ECU assumes there's no vacuum leaks
(they're seen as throttle movement, due to additional air entering the system),
and it's expecting a constant regulated fuel pressure. The FI system isn't smart
like modern vehicles, as it needs certain parameters to run, and is looking for
them. It doesn't automatically adjust the system for wear, or bad timing, or
anything like the modern systems do.</DIV>
<DIV>I hope this helps.<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000
size=2 face=Arial><BR>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65 Notch
with sunroof</FONT><FONT lang=0 color=#000000 size=3 face=Arial
FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
PTSIZE="12"><BR></FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>