<p dir="ltr">Jim,<br>
It is just the o-rings that are leaking. The silver cap area is good. The pump runs great other than that. I'll just find some round o-rings that fit.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Brian</p>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Nov 1, 2015 8:34 AM, "Jim Adney" <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">On 31 Oct 2015 at 21:48, B Fye wrote:<br>
<br>
> My OEM fuel pump is loosing much fuel from the o-rings by the oulet end.<br>
> Are they supposed to be flat? Also, is there a part number for them? I<br>
> need to order a pair. The pump works great, just leaks way too much!<br>
<br>
Those O-rings are originally round, but they get flattened with age.<br>
I rebuild a LOT of those pumps, and I replace those O-rings as a<br>
matter of course, but I don't think I have EVER seen a leak there.<br>
Are you sure it's not coming from the little silver cap on the relief<br>
valve? That cap sometimes corrodes thru and that's where the leak is.<br>
leaks around the electrical connector or the motor housing are also<br>
rather common, but those tend to happen most often on pumps that have<br>
dried out.<br>
<br>
Drying out allows the O-rings to shrink so they no longer seal. If<br>
this is the case with this pump, it MAY seal again if the O-rings are<br>
allowed to soak in gas for a few days and swell back up.<br>
<br>
Rebuilding your pump will cost $75 plus return shipping if the motor<br>
runs and there are no leaks at the electrical connector or the motor<br>
housing. This repair fixes the O-rings, the relief valve cap, and the<br>
relief valve piston (which is starting to fail on all our pumps at<br>
this age) and is all that most pumps require.<br>
<br>
If I have to take the motor portion apart to replace the other 2<br>
O-rings, the price goes up to $125, plus return shipping.<br>
<br>
Return shipping would be $18 in either case.<br>
<br>
I prefer rebuilding the OG Bosch pumps to replacement with a modern<br>
pump, because it means that you don't have to re-plumb the fuel<br>
lines, move the pump to a different location, and cut off the<br>
original electrical connector. If you just need the basic pump head<br>
rebuild, the cost is the same as the aftermarket pump.<br>
<br>
Once rebuilt, the pump should last as long as it did the first time<br>
around, as long as you have done something to repair your cracked<br>
overflow hose. Most of the pumps I rebuild have suffered from some<br>
amount of abuse from water and dirt that came in thru those cracks.<br>
Water and dirt in your system will damage any pump you put in there,<br>
as well as the gas tank and all other parts of the FI (or carb)<br>
system.<br>
<br>
--<br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
VWType3.Org mailing list - <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>
<a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><br>
If you need more help, contact: <a href="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org">gregm@vwtype3.org</a><br>
</blockquote></div>