<html><head></head><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px"> - New (last year) front brake hose looks ok, and no violence or problems installing.<br id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1461800921064_19917">-
My Stick-Pushing-Against-Pedal-and-Seat trick has always worked...before. It
won't push pedal to the floor when valve is opened, but it pushes
enough to push squirts of bubbles (if any) out. Do it a couple or few
times per wheel and the pedal is right up on top as it should. Good
exercise getting up and down too.<br id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1461800921064_19918"><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1461800921064_19919" dir="ltr">- An auto parts store in town can
get, in day or two, both rear brake hoses...now that I'm sold on replacing the 45 year old ones. They're Dorman brand...Part No.
H93105...and their computer blurb says they're for my 71 T-3, and
they're both the same....about 10 inches. Returns ok if that's not right...but what's the story?</div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1461800921064_19979" dir="ltr">- Haven't jacked up rear end yet to perfectly adjust rear brakes. Will post results when that happens.<br></div><br><br><br>Message: 2<br>Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 10:49:59 -0500<br>From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@VWType3.org><br>To: type3@vwtype3.org<br>Subject: Re: [T3] Rear Brake Hoses...<br>Message-ID: <5720DFA7.18451.7BB37B@jadney.VWType3.org><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1<br><br>On 26 Apr 2016 at 23:14, J. Jonik wrote:<br><br>> PS:? Front left side with old hose seems to work fine.? But the rt.<br>> side with the new hose (6 months or so?) does that drip and dribble,<br>> but not squirt, thing. <br><br>Oh, I had that backwards. Any chance the RF hose has an unusual twist <br>in it, or that you twisted it a lot to get it installed? Excess <br>twist, even temporarily, can damage a brake hose.<br><br>To install these, you have to free up the line nut on the end of the <br>hard line, so the hose can be installed with just the right amount of <br>twist, so it can hang right and not have excess twist or touch <br>anything as the suspension goes up and down. All the turning must <br>then be done to the line nut. <br><br>You also mentioned that you were doing all your bleeding alone, using <br>a stick on the brake pedal, which makes me wonder how you were able <br>to insert the stick and watch for "squirt" at the same time.<br><br>To bleed alone, you need a couple feet of clear plastic tubing that <br>will fit over the bleed valve, loop up a couple inches, and then go <br>down into the bottom of the container you use to catch the old brake <br>fluid. Then you can sit in the driver's seat and just pump the pedal <br>a few times with the bleed valve open. This works just fine, as long <br>as you check the reservoir occasionally to make sure it doesn't get <br>low and suck air into the master cylinder.<br><br>After a few pumps, you can get out and look at the hose. The upward <br>loop should be filled with fluid, but any bubbles there indicate air <br>that's coming out.<br><br>The upward loop keeps you from sucking air back into the cylinder on <br>the upstroke of the pedal. If you have 2 people, you should still use <br>this same method, so you can watch for progress and bubbles.<br><br>-- <br>*******************************<br>Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org<br>Madison, Wisconsin, USA</div></body></html>