<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top"><div>Other bits:- <br /><br />Don't throw away the 46mm Nuts from your old Silencer. Carefully cut the Stub Pipes, remove the Nuts and keep them in your Toolbox. You can use the Nuts to clean up the Threads in your Secondary Heat Exchangers, without the Silencer getting in the way. You can even make cuts at 90 degrees to the Threads to make it work like a proper Thread Tap.<br /><br />No you do not want to leave Exhaust Gas leaking into your Engine Compartment ! Never mind the noise, it makes for inefficient running and is an obvious safety issue. It would be an MOT Test Fail here in he U.K. putting your car off the road until any leak of Exhaust Gas was fixed.<br /><br />First time I fitted a new Silencer to my Type 3 was in the workshop of an Aircooled Specialist. I had no Garage of my own at that time. He did not believe I would have got a new Silencer fitted leak free first time.
Tested it by selling his hand over the Tailpipe. It was leak free !<br /><br />Steve</div></td></tr></table> <div id="_origMsg_">
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type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 73, Issue 8 <br>
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<td valign="top">Send type3-vwtype3.org mailing list submissions to<BR> <a ymailto="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<BR> <a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><BR>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<BR> <a ymailto="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>You can reach the person managing the list at<BR> <a ymailto="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-owner@lists.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3-vwtype3.org-owner@lists.vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it
is more specific<BR>than "Re: Contents of type3-vwtype3.org digest..."<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>VWType3.Org mailing list - <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<BR><a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><BR>If you need more help, contact: <a ymailto="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">gregm@vwtype3.org</a><BR>_______________________________________________<BR><BR><BR><BR>Today's Topics:<BR><BR> 1. Re: type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 73, Issue 7 (S UNSWORTH)<BR> 2. Re: Front Upper Shock Bushing (Jim Adney)<BR> 3. Re: securing the speedometer? (Jim Adney)<BR> 4. Re: The infamous 9-pin relay (Jim Adney)<BR> 5. 3-position, Ignition Switch "Saver",
Anti-Theft, Fuel Pump<BR> Switch (Gary Forsmo)<BR> 6. Re: The infamous 9-pin relay (Max Welton)<BR> 7. Re: Front Upper Shock Bushing (Keith Park)<BR> 8. Mufflers and Heat Exchangers (J. Jonik)<BR> 9. Re: Mufflers and Heat Exchangers (Jim Adney)<BR> 10. Re: Front Upper Shock Bushing (Sean Bartnik)<BR><BR><BR>----------------------------------------------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 1<BR>Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2016 22:14:35 +0100<BR>From: S UNSWORTH <<a ymailto="mailto:s.unsworth816@btinternet.com" href="javascript:return">s.unsworth816@btinternet.com</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 73, Issue 7<BR>Message-ID:<BR> <<a ymailto="mailto:1476047675.80830.YahooMailMobile@web171406.mail.ir2.yahoo.com"
href="javascript:return">1476047675.80830.YahooMailMobile@web171406.mail.ir2.yahoo.com</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<BR><BR>Apologies for my a Typo. <BR><BR>That should have said a Timesert Insert.<BR><BR> Not Timeserve Insert. <BR><BR>Steve<BR>-------------- next part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: <<a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/a0683d07/attachment.htm" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/a0683d07/attachment.htm</a>><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 2<BR>Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2016 17:04:04 -0500<BR>From: "Jim Adney" <<a ymailto="mailto:jadney@VWType3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@VWType3.org</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] Front Upper Shock Bushing<BR>Message-ID: <<a
ymailto="mailto:57FABED4.31561.14C2432@jadney.VWType3.org" href="javascript:return">57FABED4.31561.14C2432@jadney.VWType3.org</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1<BR><BR>On 9 Oct 2016 at 15:35, Sean Bartnik wrote:<BR><BR>> So last night while driving the upper mounting bolt for my right front<BR>> shock decided to depart the vehicle and go off on its own on the mean<BR>> streets of Brooklyn. Unfortunately it also took the washers and<BR>> bushing with it. I can find sources online for the bolt and washers<BR>> but I can?t seem to get the bushing without buying a new shock. <BR><BR>The rubber bushing is pressed into the eye on the end of the shock <BR>and is very hard to remove. It won't just fall out on its own. I <BR>spent quite a bit of time trying to find a replacement for a worn out <BR>(destroyed) bushing in another car last winter and finally gave up <BR>and made something from makeshift parts. Don't know
how long that <BR>will last, but all my attempts at finding an original were fruitless.<BR><BR>If you're just talking about the steel sleeve inside, I may have one, <BR>but if your rubber was worn enough that the sleeve could fall out, <BR>that's not a good sign. It should be VERY tight in there.<BR><BR>-- <BR>*******************************<BR>Jim Adney, <a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<BR>*******************************<BR><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 3<BR>Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2016 17:04:04 -0500<BR>From: "Jim Adney" <<a ymailto="mailto:jadney@VWType3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@VWType3.org</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] securing the speedometer?<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:57FABED4.28010.14C25B9@jadney.VWType3.org"
href="javascript:return">57FABED4.28010.14C25B9@jadney.VWType3.org</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<BR><BR>On 8 Oct 2016 at 16:30, Max Welton wrote:<BR><BR>> >A '69 or '70 gas gauge would give you icons and correct spring tabs. <BR>> >An earlier gauge would have no icons, but would be "correct" for your <BR>> >'67. I can probably come up with either option if you're interested.<BR>> <BR>> I may just take you up on that. If you have a nice one <BR>> with the icons (save a 67 correct gauge for someone who<BR>> requires that) let me know.<BR><BR>I'm pretty sure I have a decent '69-70 gauge w/icons, but the <BR>question is always how good the silver bezel is. They always get <BR>rusty by the time I get them. I can repaint them, but I'll only do <BR>this if I can paint all 3, along with a refirb of the speedo and <BR>clock, so that gets expensive.<BR><BR>I checked, and I can't find the extra spring clips
that I know that <BR>I've saved, somewhere.... ;-p<BR><BR>-- <BR>*******************************<BR>Jim Adney, <a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<BR>*******************************<BR><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 4<BR>Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2016 17:04:03 -0500<BR>From: "Jim Adney" <<a ymailto="mailto:jadney@VWType3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@VWType3.org</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] The infamous 9-pin relay<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:57FABED3.13823.14C22DB@jadney.VWType3.org" href="javascript:return">57FABED3.13823.14C22DB@jadney.VWType3.org</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<BR><BR>On 9 Oct 2016 at 2:39, Max Welton wrote:<BR><BR>> The 9-pin that came with the 67 gives no dash indicator <BR>> flash when the
turn signals are running and when I wired <BR>> up -S and 49a to the emergency flasher switch (as shown <BR>> in the diagram), the fuse blew as soon as the switch closed.<BR><BR>My first guess would be that the blown fuse means that something <BR>wasn't wired correctly.<BR><BR>> Matt Roberds page shows a "-S" instead of "S". I hope these<BR>> are the same terminal.<BR><BR>That would be my guess also.<BR><BR>-- <BR>*******************************<BR>Jim Adney, <a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<BR>*******************************<BR><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 5<BR>Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2016 18:59:17 -0500<BR>From: Gary Forsmo <<a ymailto="mailto:gbforsmo@gmail.com" href="javascript:return">gbforsmo@gmail.com</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: [T3] 3-position,
Ignition Switch "Saver", Anti-Theft, Fuel<BR> Pump Switch<BR>Message-ID:<BR> <<a ymailto="mailto:CAN8eaV_cvqwj455S96t6x-0ktRx0vSBeEuBGOGVLXE3pzUbmqw@mail.gmail.com" href="javascript:return">CAN8eaV_cvqwj455S96t6x-0ktRx0vSBeEuBGOGVLXE3pzUbmqw@mail.gmail.com</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<BR><BR>Well ... it finally happened.<BR>After Jim installed the 3-position (etc.) Fuel Pump Switch in my '69<BR>Square, I got in the habit of putting the toggle switch in the NO RUN<BR>position when I parked in a public area or store parking lot.<BR><BR>Yesterday, I ran an errand to the local hardware store. After I returned<BR>to the Square, two men were admiring the Square; asking questions, etc., I<BR>put the key in ignition, turned it to the start position and the engine<BR>would turn over but not start. Hmmm? The engine was running perfectly<BR>fine before I
parked.<BR><BR>(You can probably see where I'm going with this.)<BR><BR>After three failed attempts to start the car ... BING! The "light bulb<BR>over my head" went on. Duh! Return the Fuel Pump switch to the RUN<BR>position.<BR><BR>I'm pretty certain a potential "thief" would have never found the switch.<BR>Now, in addition to getting in the habit of putting the toggle switch into<BR>the NO RUN position; I also need to get into the habit of pulling the<BR>switch back into the RUN position, too. But the real benefit of the<BR>3-position Fuel Pump Switch is it saves wear 'n tear on the ignition switch.<BR><BR>-- <BR>Gary "Frito" - '69 Squareback, FI, MT, One-owner<BR>Rockport, TX (winter)<BR>Lake Geneva, WI (summer)<BR>-------------- next part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: <<a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/634dc653/attachment.htm" target=_blank
>http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/634dc653/attachment.htm</a>><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 6<BR>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 01:20:59 +0000 (UTC)<BR>From: Max Welton <<a ymailto="mailto:max_welton_2k@yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">max_welton_2k@yahoo.com</a>><BR>To: "<a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a>" <<a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] The infamous 9-pin relay<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:1189175760.1748706.1476062459980@mail.yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">1189175760.1748706.1476062459980@mail.yahoo.com</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<BR><BR>Agreed. The fuse that blew is supplying juice to terminal 30. It's <BR>just something I have to figure out.<BR><BR>>My first guess would be that the blown fuse means that
something <BR>>wasn't wired correctly.<BR><BR><BR>-- <BR>*******************************<BR>Jim Adney, <a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<BR>*******************************<BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 7<BR>Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2016 22:12:01 -0400<BR>From: "Keith Park" <<a ymailto="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com" href="javascript:return">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>><BR>To: <<a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] Front Upper Shock Bushing<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:DF.2A.04822.0F8FAF75@cdptpa-omsmta03" href="javascript:return">DF.2A.04822.0F8FAF75@cdptpa-omsmta03</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<BR><BR>I THINK those shocks on the front were OE BOGE, I wonder if the rubber<BR>cracked or let go<BR><BR>and that loosed the bolt,
you'd probably have heard that long before it<BR>came out though,<BR><BR>i MAY have an OEM BOGE that I can send you, Jim is right... they are VERY<BR>hard to press in and out<BR><BR>and if the rubber is not in good shape it wont survive that. Hate to lose<BR>the BOGE's... there must be<BR><BR>something that can be replaced in there. Ill be at the T3 shed later this<BR>week, Ill see what shocks<BR><BR>and parts I have.<BR><BR> <BR><BR>KEith<BR><BR> <BR><BR> <BR><BR>Topnotch Restorations<BR><BR><a ymailto="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com" href="javascript:return">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><BR><BR><a href="http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm" target=_blank >http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm</a><BR><BR>71 Squareback "Hothe"<BR><BR>65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<BR><BR>93 RX7 "Redstur"<BR><BR>87 Golf "Winterat"<BR><BR> <BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:<a
ymailto="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>]<BR>On Behalf Of Sean Bartnik<BR>Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2016 3:36 PM<BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: [T3] Front Upper Shock Bushing<BR><BR> <BR><BR>Hi all,<BR><BR>So last night while driving the upper mounting bolt for my right front shock<BR>decided to depart the vehicle and go off on its own on the mean streets of<BR>Brooklyn.<BR><BR> <BR><BR>Unfortunately it also took the washers and bushing with it. I can find<BR>sources online for the bolt and washers but I can't seem to get the bushing<BR>without buying a new shock.<BR><BR> <BR><BR>If anyone has one they wouldn't mind parting with, that would be a huge<BR>help. According to the parts book it's 111 413 371A. <BR><BR> <BR><BR>Dan, who is local to me, has graciously offered to
check his storage space<BR>tomorrow because he's pretty sure he has a spare set of shocks in there.<BR>But in the event he isn't able to locate them, I figured I'd post here in<BR>case someone else has a spare.<BR><BR> <BR><BR>Thanks,<BR><BR>Sean<BR><BR>'65 Squareback<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR><BR>VWType3.Org mailing list - <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<BR><BR><a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>If you need more help, contact: <a ymailto="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">gregm@vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR>-------------- next part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: <<a
href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/4d81b9d9/attachment.htm" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161009/4d81b9d9/attachment.htm</a>><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 8<BR>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 04:18:21 +0000 (UTC)<BR>From: "J. Jonik" <<a ymailto="mailto:j_jonik@yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">j_jonik@yahoo.com</a>><BR>To: "<a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a>" <<a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a>><BR>Subject: [T3] Mufflers and Heat Exchangers<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:1571199602.1077249.1476073101895@mail.yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">1571199602.1077249.1476073101895@mail.yahoo.com</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<BR><BR>Re/ previous postings about removing and re installing those 46 mm
nuts from muffler to rear heat exchangers:<BR>What if one managed to get the big nuts from new muffler screwed well into the old rear heat exchangers, and re-installed the muffler and all, but didn't think to put in the copper seal rings?<BR>Would one be advised to do the horror job of taking it all apart just to install those rings?? Sad thing is, I had new copper rings right there in my collection of stuff...but, after a Long Time between muffler jobs, didn't know what they were.<BR><BR>What if remnants of the old copper seal rings were still in the heat exchangers? ? I didn't scrape anything like that out, or see anything fall out. ?? Would that suffice to prevent whatever leakage?? Engine running...no hand-feel of any leakage at that juncture.?? Would exhaust leakage be felt if there wasn't proper sealing?<BR>Then, would that be just some harmless exhaust fumes down under the engine, out the back?? Any performance effects?<BR>-------------- next
part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: <<a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161010/7805e6bb/attachment.htm" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20161010/7805e6bb/attachment.htm</a>><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 9<BR>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 00:51:56 -0500<BR>From: "Jim Adney" <<a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] Mufflers and Heat Exchangers<BR>Message-ID: <<a ymailto="mailto:57FB2C7C.15167.3A4CAE@jadney.vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">57FB2C7C.15167.3A4CAE@jadney.vwtype3.org</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1<BR><BR>On 10 Oct 2016 at 4:18, J. Jonik wrote:<BR><BR>> Re/ previous postings about removing and re
installing those 46 mm nuts from muffler to rear heat exchangers:<BR>> What if one managed to get the big nuts from new muffler screwed well into the old rear heat exchangers, and re-installed the muffler and all, but didn't think to put in the copper seal rings?<BR>> Would one be advised to do the horror job of taking it all apart just to install those rings?? Sad thing is, I had new copper rings right there in my collection of stuff...but, after a Long Time between muffler jobs, didn't know what they were.<BR><BR>The first time I did this job I didn't know about those sealing <BR>rings. The result was a noisy exhaust and eventual eroding of the HE <BR>sealing surface. I wish I hadn't left it that way.<BR><BR>> What if remnants of the old copper seal rings were still in the heat<BR>> exchangers? ? I didn't scrape anything like that out, or see anything<BR>> fall out. ?? Would that suffice to prevent whatever leakage?? Engine<BR>>
running...no hand-feel of any leakage at that juncture.?? Would<BR>> exhaust leakage be felt if there wasn't proper sealing? <BR><BR>If it seals, it's good. It's possible that the old seal is doing the <BR>job, especially if you really can't hear or feel any leak. Just be <BR>sure. You don't want to damage the HE.<BR><BR>-- <BR>*******************************<BR>Jim Adney, <a ymailto="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<BR>*******************************<BR><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Message: 10<BR>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 08:47:27 -0400<BR>From: Sean Bartnik <<a ymailto="mailto:sjbartnik@mac.com" href="javascript:return">sjbartnik@mac.com</a>><BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [T3] Front Upper Shock Bushing<BR>Message-ID: <<a
ymailto="mailto:C5DCA225-832E-4FA9-A54F-D1D3DB152C7E@mac.com" href="javascript:return">C5DCA225-832E-4FA9-A54F-D1D3DB152C7E@mac.com</a>><BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<BR><BR>To clarify, the rubber grommet is still there. It was the steel sleeve that came out with the bolt.<BR><BR>> <BR>> The rubber bushing is pressed into the eye on the end of the shock <BR>> and is very hard to remove. It won't just fall out on its own. I <BR>> spent quite a bit of time trying to find a replacement for a worn out <BR>> (destroyed) bushing in another car last winter and finally gave up <BR>> and made something from makeshift parts. Don't know how long that <BR>> will last, but all my attempts at finding an original were fruitless.<BR>> <BR>> If you're just talking about the steel sleeve inside, I may have one, <BR>> but if your rubber was worn enough that the sleeve could fall out, <BR>> that's not a good sign.
It should be VERY tight in there.<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>Subject: Digest Footer<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>VWType3.Org mailing list - <a ymailto="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">type3@vwtype3.org</a><BR>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<BR><a href="http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org" target=_blank >http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</a><BR>If you need more help, contact: <a ymailto="mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org" href="javascript:return">gregm@vwtype3.org</a><BR><BR><BR>------------------------------<BR><BR>End of type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 73, Issue 8<BR>************************************************<BR></td>
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