<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body><div><div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">The car had a couple of elderly POs and had only done 43K in 7 years, so maybe had been driven gently until I got it. 20-year olds don't do that! Someone mentioned a batch of bad camshafts, but it still cost me a lot for it to be repaired.<br><br>Dave,<br>UK VW Type 3 and 4 Club<br>----------------------------</div></div><div dir="ltr"><hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:vwfye311@gmail.com">B Fye</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">17/09/2017 02:16</span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">[T3] Oil...</span><br><br></div>I use whatever is on sale. 10w-30 conventional on sale. Currently, that<br>is Carquest brand oil.<br><br>Some will scoff, but I have never wiped out a cam in any of my engines.<br><br>Brian<br><br>On Sep 16, 2017 6:11 PM, <type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org><br>wrote:<br><br>Send type3-vwtype3.org mailing list submissions to<br> type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org<br><br>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org<br>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br> type3-vwtype3.org-request@lists.vwtype3.org<br><br>You can reach the person managing the list at<br> type3-vwtype3.org-owner@lists.vwtype3.org<br><br>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>than "Re: Contents of type3-vwtype3.org digest..."<br><br><br>***********************************<br>When replying to the digest, please remember to trim your message. Thanks!<br>:)<br>***********************************<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org<br>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org<br>If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org<br>_______________________________________________<br><br><br><br>Today's Topics:<br><br> 1. Re: Engine Oil (Phil Hof)<br> 2. Knock Knock (Daniel Nohejl)<br> 3. Re: Knock Knock (Sean Bartnik)<br> 4. Re: Engine Oil (Keith Park)<br> 5. Re: Knock Knock (Ralph Tree)<br> 6. Re: Knock Knock (Dave Hall)<br> 7. Re: Knock Knock (Keith Park)<br> 8. Re: Knock Knock (Sean Bartnik)<br> 9. Re: Knock Knock (Keith Park)<br> 10. Re: Knock Knock (Keith Park)<br><br><br>----------------------------------------------------------------------<br><br>Message: 1<br>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 15:04:11 -0700<br>From: Phil Hof <phil.hof@ostronic.org><br>To: type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org<br>Subject: Re: [T3] Engine Oil<br>Message-ID: <EAA6940D-9CFF-43E7-AB64-1FC044266AEC@ostronic.org><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8<br><br>There are literally hundreds of pages on oil in the Samba! One more voice,<br>FWIW?<br><br>My rebuilder recommended VR-1 30 weight after he rebuilt the long block.<br>With the damage I probably did driving to/from the Invasion, I found I had<br>low oil pressure when hot, so I went to 20W-50 (and the racing oil at that,<br>for the high temp tolerance). Plus 4oz ZDDP additive at oil changes, per<br>his recommendation.<br><br>Along with replacing my broken distributor (that had been WAY over<br>advancing on that trip), this seems to have brought my pressures and<br>temperatures where they need to be. I may have done damage, because at my<br>oil change this morning, I found light metal flakes caught by the screen (I<br>also have a spin-on full flow filter, which I may cut open one of these<br>days).<br><br>My fingers are crossed for the Type 3 Rally up the SoCal coast at the end<br>of this month. After that, I may pull the motor and split the case to find<br>what I chewed up.<br><br>That oil and additive are expensive, and I change it by the calendar, not<br>the odometer, since I drive maybe a couple of thousand miles a year at most<br>(save for the Invasion and Rally).<br><br>-Phil<br><br>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>> Message: 1<br>> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 10:44:13 -0500<br>> From: Gary Forsmo <gbforsmo@gmail.com><br>> To: "type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org><br>> Subject: [T3] Engine Oil<br>> Message-ID:<br>> <CAN8eaV_5znmpPXMcy3Xc3Wf2yRj_dmPmZSCg7vY6TeCA+OipPA@mail.gmail.com><br>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>><br>> Within our Type 3 group, what engine oil is popular?<br>><br>> 1. Price per quart or<br>> 2. 12-quart case?<br>><br>><br>> Do any of you insist on using an engine oil which either has<br>><br>> 1. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) *IN* the oil or<br>> 2. do you *add* approximately 4 oz. of ZDDP, when you change your oil?<br>><br>> I have periodically used Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Racing Oil and Amsoil Z-Rod<br>> 10W-30. Both are quite expensive.<br>><br>> Are those oils worth the expense, given most of us drive a few hundred or<br>a<br>> few thousand miles a year?<br>> ************************************************<br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message: 2<br>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 18:51:07 -0400<br>From: Daniel Nohejl <d.nohejl@gmail.com><br>To: "type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org><br>Subject: [T3] Knock Knock<br>Message-ID: <B29FEEDF-DBD5-4170-A43A-09C1EFF1FF66@gmail.com><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8<br><br>Over the last few weeks, we?ve been trying to diagnose a noise?...<br><br>In Madison, I thought I noticed what sounded like a loose valve. A day or<br>so later, we discovered that the connection between our heater box and<br>muffler was loose. We tightened it and applied some muffler repair and the<br>noise vanished. Now, we have a new louder noise that has emerged over the<br>last few weeks. It?s been hard to diagnose as the noise is generally<br>loudest at cold start and for the 10 or 15 seconds the engine is running<br>before the high idle kicks in. To properly diagnose, I had to pinch off the<br>AAR hose at the air cleaner so I could get a low idle for a longer period.<br>I also required the assistance of Sean, whose ear has proven indispensable<br>more than once. Anyway, here are the other general characteristics of the<br>noise:<br><br>1. The noise is loudest at idle<br>2. Above idle, it sounds like a loose valve.<br>3. While cruising, it can barely be heard, even when driving next to a<br>concrete divider on the highway.<br>4. After letting off the gas, the noise doesn?t return until just above<br>idle. It definitely doesn?t start up right after getting off the throttle.<br>5. It?s clearly coming from the 3/4 side of the motor.<br>6. All valves are correctly set, there?s no excessive side play (solid<br>rocker shafts), the springs are fine, etc. I?ve run the motor several times<br>with the valve cover off and everything looks right.<br>7. After unplugging the spark plug wires at #3 and #4, it?s clear that the<br>issue is at #3. With the #3 wire unplugged, the noise diminishes by a good<br>80%<br><br>Here?s a video (credit Sean) that does a great job of capturing the noise<br><br>https://youtu.be/sxs1yrFLPl0<br><br>I know what all of this suggests, but I?m curious if what I?m describing<br>rings any other bells for anyone. Or, if we know what it is, can it be<br>fixed without splitting the case????<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Daniel<br><br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message: 3<br>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:14:26 -0400<br>From: Sean Bartnik <sjbartnik@mac.com><br>To: type3@vwtype3.org<br>Subject: Re: [T3] Knock Knock<br>Message-ID: <626CAB83-9620-4D91-B906-4CBCD8A101A4@mac.com><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8<br><br>Just to add my impression since the character of the noise doesn?t always<br>come across in video (though I think this one does a good job).<br><br>It?s a very metallic hammering type sound. Sounds deep; not like valve<br>noise.<br><br><br>> On Sep 16, 2017, at 6:51 PM, Daniel Nohejl <d.nohejl@gmail.com> wrote:<br>><br>> Over the last few weeks, we?ve been trying to diagnose a noise?...<br>><br>> In Madison, I thought I noticed what sounded like a loose valve. A day or<br>so later, we discovered that the connection between our heater box and<br>muffler was loose. We tightened it and applied some muffler repair and the<br>noise vanished. Now, we have a new louder noise that has emerged over the<br>last few weeks. It?s been hard to diagnose as the noise is generally<br>loudest at cold start and for the 10 or 15 seconds the engine is running<br>before the high idle kicks in. To properly diagnose, I had to pinch off the<br>AAR hose at the air cleaner so I could get a low idle for a longer period.<br>I also required the assistance of Sean, whose ear has proven indispensable<br>more than once. Anyway, here are the other general characteristics of the<br>noise:<br>><br>> 1. The noise is loudest at idle<br>> 2. Above idle, it sounds like a loose valve.<br>> 3. While cruising, it can barely be heard, even when driving next to a<br>concrete divider on the highway.<br>> 4. After letting off the gas, the noise doesn?t return until just above<br>idle. It definitely doesn?t start up right after getting off the throttle.<br>> 5. It?s clearly coming from the 3/4 side of the motor.<br>> 6. All valves are correctly set, there?s no excessive side play (solid<br>rocker shafts), the springs are fine, etc. I?ve run the motor several times<br>with the valve cover off and everything looks right.<br>> 7. After unplugging the spark plug wires at #3 and #4, it?s clear that<br>the issue is at #3. With the #3 wire unplugged, the noise diminishes by a<br>good 80%<br>><br>> Here?s a video (credit Sean) that does a great job of capturing the noise<br>><br>> https://youtu.be/sxs1yrFLPl0<br>><br>> I know what all of this suggests, but I?m curious if what I?m describing<br>rings any other bells for anyone. Or, if we know what it is, can it be<br>fixed without splitting the case????<br>><br>> Thanks,<br>><br>> Daniel<br>><br>><br>> _______________________________________________<br>> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org<br>> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org<br>> If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org<br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message: 4<br>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 20:38:37 -0400<br>From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com><br>To: <type3@vwtype3.org><br>Subject: Re: [T3] Engine Oil<br>Message-ID: <C1.87.26203.704CDB95@cdptpa-omsmta01><br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>I use Pennzoil 25W50 racing oil in the square with its old engine, in summer<br>use, it has the ZDDP. In the Notch I use Joe Gibbs, forget what type,<br>but its for the air cooleds and has the ZDDP. 10W30 as the engine is young<br>and tight. Remember, synthetics cant be used in stock engines without the<br>oil filter.<br><br>Keith<br><br><br>Topnotch Restorations<br>topnotch@nycap.rr.com<br>http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm<br>71 Squareback "Hothe"<br>65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<br>93 RX7 "Redstur"<br>87 Golf "Winterat" RIP<br>01 Sentra SE "Boremobile"<br><br><div>[The entire original message is not included.]</div></body></html>