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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> All the years I've owned this car I've looked
at the wiring schematic just to get an idea of how it works. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I never had electrical issues other
than the fuel gauge and a few voltage regulators . I've only really worked on
and been through the FI wiring .</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I stared out tightening the FI small
connectors on the FI engine componants and it helped a little . </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> Mainly it's the grounds that seem to be an
issue. Once I cleaned and tightend the FI to case grounds it helped quite a bit
. Especially the one ground that had 2 wires to 1 encased in a now black once
clear plastic connector with 1/4" spades we have all over these cars.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I have been chasing this no load idle erratic
miss as some might know. I also have been in the dash chasing a since I've owned
this car fuel gauge jumping once it gets below 1/2 tank , tap the dash near the
gauge when it drops to 1/4 and it jumps back to 1/2 , if it gets near the right
of the red mark tap it it moves to the 1/4 mark if not I know I'm near empty.
And then there is the horn.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> This car still has the original ignition
switch and I have a new one I got over a decade ago. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> Yesterday I decided to do a voltage drop test
mainly on the ground side since this is where most issues appear to be. I
started at the battery posts engine running DMM set on auto range volts,
checking across the posts and cable 0 volt drop as some call it ground zero. You
have the poss side to the load and the load to the ground. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I then knowing the battery pos and neg were 0
volt drop checked from the battery neg red lead from DMM to battery neg , black
lead to engine case had 35 mV or 0.035 volts nothing really. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I checked the coil all leads unpluged to see
what the primary resistance is 3.4 ohm.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> My point and thinking is the car
starter cranks over fine yet most of the time the ign switch is on the run
circuit powering everything . From the ign switch to the coil there is one wire
, the only other connection at the fuse box is a connection at the hot side
bridging two fuses. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I had the DMM connected at the battery neg to
the coil #15 pos and read 13.8 volts engine running and the same across coil #15
to the case also 13.8 . across the battery posts it is 14.8 volts a 1 volt drop
. I haven't checked across the fuse or the ign switch yet . The coil is not a
high current draw . I realize no wire is a perfect resistance free deal.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I feel if I have 1 volt drop it's possible
the switch has resistance and this might be part of this erratic miss I have.
Using an ohm meter is what ever voltage the meter has to push voltage and is not
as accurate as a DMM voltage drop test. I also have a pertronix and don't know
what it draws . </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I'm just trying to rule out ignition
before condeming the FI . </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I do know if I unplug temp sensor 1 all the
miss goes away and I no longer hear or feel the erratic miss at the tail pipe
and I know the electric AAR does not always close fully. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I also feel if I check for voltage drop by
back probing the ECU connector to each componant in the fuel injection engine
running where any vibration may come into play rather than using an ohm test
engine off I might find issues I miss with an ohm meter. I don't think
checking the FI from the ECU checking for voltage drops will harm anything
because you are not injectiong voltage from the DMM. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> Just working in the dash with my big mits to
pull the gauges left me with multiple cuts . Since I need to pull the steering
wheel to repair the horn contact I might as well replace the ign switch. I
know I can be crafty and drill a small hole right where the Ign switch tiny
screw is and replace it that way. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I did find it odd that if I check for voltage
drop on the engine case I see 0.035 volts then at the generator ground I see
0.143 . it could be because it's a rebuilt Bosch and it was painted because it
should be a good ground to the case </FONT> <FONT size=2 face=Arial>or it's
because it has it's own ground to the regulator to the body which shouldn't
matter. My DMM has a 10 Mohm input impedance on the DC volts. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I don't like that there are so many unfused
hot leads yet without using either fusable links or adding fuses as long as the
leads have good insulation they should be fine. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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