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<DIV>In a message dated 12/9/2017 2:28:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
catnine09@dslextreme.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>What it
does now is <BR>start and run at 950 and basically holds that even in drive
only with a <BR>short drop when I shift it into drive or reverse and once warm
the idle <BR>drops to 850 and seems to remain there in drive then in park
rises to 950. <BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2
face=Arial>I only bring this up not to debate what percentage the air temp
sensor <BR>richens the mix only because doing this changes the way it runs so
much . I <BR>have read this was an old techs trick on Rennlist I think.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The 100 rpm drop from park/neutral is normal for an AT car. This is because
of the torque converter loading up to move the vehicle.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'm beginning to think that maybe you might need to ballast the head temp
sensor. If it drops too low in resistance, the ECU will continue to lean out the
mix. This might be what you're seeing.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 size=2 face=Arial FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Bob 65 Notch
w/Factory Sunroof converted to IRS</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>