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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I brought up unplugging the air temp sensor
. So far this does make the engine run fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> One thing that remains as before. When I
first start it cold after a few minutes the idle increase's by 200 RPM then
after a while it drops down . I had to set the idle lower because of the
increase with the air temp sensor unplugged. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I know more air = more fuel not richer like a
vacuum leak would cause.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> Is it the time the head temp sensor heats up
added to the time the AAR is open so you have more fuel which is richer and more
air because of the AAR being open.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> This is the part that does not make sense.
Cold the AAR is open = more air yet why would the idle increase 200 RPM not
right away yet after a few minutes? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I know there is some spec at what point the
HTC at certain temps reads an ohm drop and some spec on how long an electric AAR
stays open and gradually closes. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> The AAR seems to be closing yet not in the 12
minute so called time frame . It seems to vary since it may stick. I'm not even
certain the RPM sould rise at all with the AAR open . Some say it will and
others say it is only supposed to allow more air to compensate for the HTC
richer mix. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I seem to recall before that the idle cold
did not raise. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> It's not that the engine stalls.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I have runner sleeves coming and a few head
to exhaust gaskets because there is an exhaust leak where the right heat
exchanger fits the EMPI header . I need to remove that and see if the thin
aluminum sheet I have will take up that gap. I also want to replace the sleeves
and any vacuum hoses that are old which are the auto trans lines and AAR to IAD.
And last see if the PCV is an issue in some way. Also while the runners are off
replace the oil cooler seals which is no something I look foreward to. I haven't
had the tin off in a long time and can't recall if the left upper tin can come
off just by remoing the screws on the fire wall tin just enough to sneak the
left upper tin out. </FONT></DIV><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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