<div dir="ltr"> I guess I've been lucky. Until this year I haven't experienced any engine running issues except when I got this car the first thing I did was try to figure out how the FI worked because I could clearly see it needed new hoses . When it ran at idle it would run fine then suddenly begin to miss and the idle speed would drop with black smoke coming out the tailpipe . While I was working on something else in the small Ford dealership I was a tech i had this old analog voltmeter connected up and noticed when this happened the voltage would drop then once it ran fine the voltage was normal . I lifted the rear seat didn't have any Bentley yet and noticed a few red poss battery caps then after a bit since it still has that cardboard cover I found the regulator . It was just rust , I was amazed it even worked , it was the ONLY thing anywhere on this car that was rusty other than the bottom of the muffler . I could also see the area under that battery had some surface rust and the neg cable was green as well as the right rear carpet on one corner was eaten a bit. I later realized when I was wet sanding the car for paint opened the door and the entire floor was full of water then found the fresh air box drain was the reason for the rusty reg. <div><br></div><div> So far I adjusted the front stabilizer bar once because coming to a stop I noticed the front end would shift a bit side to side. Since then I've checked it many times and it's still fine. </div><div><br></div><div>William</div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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</table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"></a></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:39 AM, Keith Park <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com" target="_blank">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">this is good to know, im not that good a welder, but I could tell one that<br>
is.<br>
<br>
Thanks<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
Topnotch Restorations<br>
<a href="mailto:topnotch@nycap.rr.com">topnotch@nycap.rr.com</a><br>
<a href="http://www.topnotchresto.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.topnotchresto.com</a><br>
71 Squareback "Hothe"<br>
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"<br>
93 RX7 "Redstur"<br>
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"<br>
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell<br>
curve, and loving every minute of it!" <br>
<div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="http://type3-vwtype3.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">type3-vwtype3.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org">type3-vwtype3.org-<wbr>bounces@lists.vwtype3.org</a>]<br>
On Behalf Of Jim Adney<br>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2018 12:47 AM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [T3] Invasion and Post Invasion Repairs<br>
<br>
On 8 Aug 2018 at 22:04, Keith Park wrote:<br>
<br>
> This is interesting, I wouldnt have thought you could have welded spring <br>
> steel sucessfully, but if this works it will save alot of the larger upper<br>
sway<br>
> bars, I have several bad ones that have had the problem over the years.<br>
<br>
I was worried, too, but I'd already tried a file on the bar and it's <br>
not hardened, which surprised me, so it seemed likely to work. Before <br>
asking Bill, the welder, to weld up the good bar, I gave him a junk <br>
one to practice on. That went without incident, so he welded up the <br>
good rod. The welding was done with TIG, using a high alloy filler <br>
rod that he would also use on steels like 4130. I'll try to get the <br>
number for that rod. <br>
<br>
-- <br>
******************************<wbr>*<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
******************************<wbr>*<br>
<br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>