<div dir="ltr">I always felt the main intent of rebuilding any caliper was to at least replace both the seals and the boots as well as inspect and clean the pistons and bores. I used to do them all the time back when I lived in IL where a tech did all the work on the repair order . Most caliper's were one piston yet on Lincolns and some of the full size Fords they used 4 piston calipers as well as 2 piston. Of course there were wash bins which I don't have and wire wheels to clean off casting rust. One main difference was new parts were available as well as complete new units. Many of the rebuild kits back then also included assembly paste in a small tube, it was the same for all makes you got everything needed same with VW . <div><br></div><div> One mistake I made was not taking the calipers off the 72 square I had as a parts car , never thought about it at the time, if I had I would at least have something I could work with while still being able to drive my only mode of transport . </div><div><br></div><div> I was a bit surprised at the cost of the kit . I can get the seals and boots and thought I saw the positioning plates as a separate item on some site . I do know the pistons are not frozen and here since we don't deal with road salts the calipers on my car only have surface rust not that heavy scale rust I used to deal with and last time I bleed the calipers was about 1998 the bleeders came loose easy yet who knows now after 20 years . We don't get much rain and they look fine yet I can't see the threads in the caliper and the hex are not rounded . Then again in 98 one could still get a new caliper so if a bleeder snapped I had access to ways to get them out . They are my main concern now. My not working on cars daily as I did back then sort of lose the feel of judging how much force to apply . I haven't run across one bolt or nut anywhere on this car , even ones under the car that did not break loose with little effort. Of course a bleeder is a hollow bolt making it much more fragile. </div><div><br></div><div> From your description above that you don't use the entire kit I would imagine what parts are replaced is based on the overall condition of a caliper yet imagine you would replace the piston seals as well as the boots . This may depend if a piston is stuck , usually piston seals survive as long as no piston rust exists or leaks are evident . For me I prefer to replace the seals based on age alone. </div><div><br></div><div>William</div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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</table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"></a></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 7:52 AM, Jim Adney <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span class="">On 13 Aug 2018 at 18:52, William Jahn wrote:<br>
<br>
> One place think it is CSP1 only sells the entire kit the seals , bolts<br>
> the anti rotate clips for the pistons and the lock plate. Can I re use the<br>
> lock plate? do I really need the bolts and all I need are 2 of the piston<br>
> anit rotate clips that are the type that secure on the piston center hub<br>
> because the two on the right are missing. Their kit is $40 for one caliper.<br>
<br>
</span>Yes, the kits tend to be expensive, and I almost never replace the bolts, but I <br>
have them if anyone needs some. When I do rebuilds, I only replace the <br>
parts that are bad, so in the long term, I use less than 1 kit per caliper. If I <br>
replaced everything on every caliper, my price would have to be much <br>
higher. The part that's most often needed is the boot.<br>
<br>
I charge $100 to rebuild a pair of calipers, but a new pair of positioning <br>
plates would add $10 to that. Broken bleed valves increase the cost <br>
significantly. New pads are extra, if needed. Then you have to add in the <br>
cost, and time, of 2-way shipping, so it starts to look like you could do your <br>
own for significant savings. The problem comes when you try to actually do <br>
this yourself. I've made a number of special tools that help me get the old <br>
pistons out. I also made dies to put the positioning plates back into their <br>
original shape, since they are often bent out of shape by clumsy mechanics. <br>
Without those tools, and the experience I've had since I did my first calipers <br>
in 1971, you're going to find this to be a very difficult job.<br>
<br>
It's not just a matter of taking the old parts out and putting the new parts in.<br>
<br>
Rebuilding a master cylinder is simple, assuming you can find the correct <br>
parts, but rebuilding calipers is something that stumps most people. Plus <br>
there is the question of what lubricants you use when reassembling. <br>
That makes a huge difference in how long your rebuild will stay good.<br>
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
-- <br>
******************************<wbr>*<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
******************************<wbr>*<br>
<br>
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