<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body><div><div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">I've never used any sealant on a R/C gasket. I use the black rubberized sort. The old cork ones are trickier, and I did have those leak oil on occasion in a Bug.<br>I have heard of aftermarket bale arms being weaker, which may be something to watch for.<br><br>Dave<br>UK VW Type 3 and 4 Club.</div></div><div dir="ltr"><hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">Jim Adney</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">16/08/2018 16:08</span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [T3] Valve Cover</span><br><br></div>On 15 Aug 2018 at 19:25, Jeff C wrote:<br><br>> What is the current way to ensure the valve covers are sealed?<br><br>I use a small dab of sealer in the middle of each long side, between the <br>gasket and the cover. That keeps the long side of the gasket from "drooping" <br>inward. If the gasket you use is the right size, that's all you need. NEVER <br>glue the gasket to the head!<br><br>Late valve covers have a little dimple pushed inward on the top to prevent <br>that "droop" on the top, but I've seen gaskets creep upward along the <br>bottom.<br><br>Berg recommends keeping a spare set of covers on a spare set of heads, so <br>the sealant will be dried/set when you need them. I've never done this, but it <br>sounds reasonable because wet sealant could still allow slippage.<br><br>On the head side of the gasket, I run my finger along the full length of the <br>mating surface of the head, to make sure it's smooth. Then I wet that finger <br>in some old oil from the head or cover and wet both the mating surface of the <br>head and the head side of the gasket.<br><br>I find that the gaskets last thru many valve adjustments. I replace them only <br>if I can no longer push a fingernail into them. There seem to be 2 common <br>types of gaskets: black or beige. The black ones are good, but the beige <br>ones, that seem to come in the gasket sets, are undersize and don't fill the <br>cavity in the cover. I understand that they can be expanded by a minute or <br>so in boiling water in a small frying pan, but I've never done that. (I <br>remember seeing mechanics doing this in the 60s at my dealership. There <br>was a hotplate on one side of the shop that everyone used. I didn't <br>understand what they were doing until Russ explained it.) <br><br>Don't ever try to get away with a gasket that is undersize. Either boil it, or get <br>a better one.<br><br>-- <br>*******************************<br>Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org<br>Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>*******************************<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org<br>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:<br>http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org<br>If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org<br></body></html>