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--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">Jim Adney</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Thursday, February 21, 2019 6:41 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [T3] 73 type 3 T/S switch / wheel horn contact ring?</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I have never replaced one of those brass contact rings. I have a</p><p class=MsoNormal>replacement somewhere, but I couldn't find it when I looked quickly</p><p class=MsoNormal>last night, so I can't say whether it would have fit better.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I've always thought I could make a good repair using a bit of shim</p><p class=MsoNormal>stock, much like you did, but with a harder, dissimilar metal so the</p><p class=MsoNormal>two pieces wouldn't tend to chew into each other. I thought spring</p><p class=MsoNormal>steel would be a better choice, with some lubrication to keep the</p><p class=MsoNormal>friction down and prevent rust.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>My parts book only shows a single cancelling ring with horn contact</p><p class=MsoNormal>for '71-73.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in'> Jim , I know there are many reproduction parts out there. I had never had to purchase one and didn’t realize one I had the ring in hand it would be such a cheaply made copy . After I saw it and tried to install it I could see it was not going to fit the same as the OEM . The OEM you can drop the plastic/ insulated side right in the wheel and it drops down flush with the metal area on the wheel , on this thing I had to trim off flash and file here and there and still 1 one the 3 screw holes would not line up so I oval shaped it yet you cannot place it in by hand . I got the holes to line up and then installed the screws tightening in a pattern yet all this did was flex the plastic with the result of the actual ring to sit up higher. The casting of the plastic is so out of round and so misshapen it might seat with a lot of work . I saved the OEM plastic part hoping I could just use the ring from this junk by just bending up the 5 tabs that secure it , my fear was I measured it and it was close yet even though it looks like copper it simply has a thin coating which I found out using 800 wet /dry to remove what appeared a minute pebble surface . It is steel , on top of this the wire where it is fixed to the ring on OEM on this part it’s a ¼” female spade on the wire and ¼” male on a tab on the ring which was a loose fit so I soldered it and found the solder would stick to the brass spade yet what ever that copper thin coat is needs to be removed solder would not stick . Point is the ring is steel so here were have a rust issue . I did call ISP west and theirs looks better and the fellow looked at the J Bugs site and said it looked like a cheap copy copied from a cheap copy . We spoke of the issue I had with the wear my ring and T/S wiper had and you brought up spring steal and felt you had some good switches you might be able to save . The issue I ran into was the large amount of copper particles that were all over inside the switch and no good way to clean they away , did the best I could . </p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;text-indent:-.5in'> And yes the replacement ring as well as the T/S switch sold now are for certain years of beetles and super beetles type 3 71 to 74 and I think Things and some buses , so it’s a switch with the hope it fits they all go by the stock part # 113415660A. look at J Bugs site and you can see the part , look up that number and find all sorts of places that sell their offerings some are OEM looking. Here’s a link to the T/S switch and the vast amount of VW’s it’s ( supposed to fit.) </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>You're lucky you have a '73, because those ignition switches are cheap</p><p class=MsoNormal>and readily available. The only lubricant you should use on the key</p><p class=MsoNormal>cylinder is graphite dust. Anything wet will tend to collect dirt and</p><p class=MsoNormal>eventually gum up.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> What I did was not lube where the key fits , I had the cylinder out and cleaned the steering lock housing then lubed the outside of the cylinder as well as when the key is inserted part of the cylinder pops out at the end opposite the key and lubed there since it was dry and to make sure the ignition switch electric part which is the only spring return would not be stressed and it works like new , most of the issue was the ign switch was cracked and split open. I had to fit to get it out and it’s amazing it ever worked. I do feel part of maintenance should be to lube the ring and wiper with dielectric grease at least every few years in order to save wear. It’s the wiper that wears then chews up the ring. It’s not just a hole it’s a hole with sharp edges acting like a chisel . I didn’t know until I had horn issues. On Samba if you view this topic <a href="https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714297">https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714297</a> scroll down and you will see what my Ignition switch looked like.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Good luck finding a replacement TS switch. Those are equally rare.</p><p class=MsoNormal>Some places claim to have them, but they turn out to be Beetle parts,</p><p class=MsoNormal>which are slightly different.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> Yes I now realize this , never looked until I needed one. One thing about the condition of my T/S switch other than the worn wiper , my steering wheel was always to the left driving straight and that side of the small tab that cancels the T/S has a notch worn in it this may or may not be the reason and it may last a good long time . Difficult to say . As long as a replacement T/S switch fits and works I can live with that. I can’t say I trust mine , not after all the copper dust did as far as wear on the cancel section and there’s no way to take one apart to clean it. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> William</p><p class=MsoNormal> -</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> ****************************</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> Jim Adney</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> Madison, Wisconsin, USA</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> ****************************</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>----- Original Message -----</p><p class=MsoNormal>From: type3@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>To:"type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org></p><p class=MsoNormal>Cc:</p><p class=MsoNormal>Sent:Wed, 20 Feb 2019 14:16:49 -0800</p><p class=MsoNormal>Subject:[T3] 73 type 3 T/S switch / wheel horn contact ring?</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> Last week I decided to fix a few issues. The horn wiper on the T/S</p><p class=MsoNormal>switch has a hole worn , not just a hole it had sharp edges so it</p><p class=MsoNormal>chewed up the ring/cancel copper to the point where it was like paper</p><p class=MsoNormal>thin. I made an .018” brass piece with 4 small tabs to cover the</p><p class=MsoNormal>hole then soldered just one end for assured contact . Then before I</p><p class=MsoNormal>did this I ordered a replacement wheel contact ring from J Bugs . One</p><p class=MsoNormal>of the 3 mounting holes did not line up so I made it oval . Before</p><p class=MsoNormal>with all the original parts I could see the wiper and ring looking</p><p class=MsoNormal>through the gap between the wheel and upper column housing and there</p><p class=MsoNormal>was plenty of space between the wiper and ring . With this new ring</p><p class=MsoNormal>mounted to the wheel now I can see the metal contact ring stick out</p><p class=MsoNormal>past the edge of the wheel where before it was even if not a bit</p><p class=MsoNormal>recessed . What this does is with the wheel mounted that new ring deal</p><p class=MsoNormal>just clears the plastic of the high beam switch and really flattens</p><p class=MsoNormal>out the wiper on the T/S . </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> From what I can tell the plastic part of the new cancel ring does not</p><p class=MsoNormal>seat down far enough in the steering wheel , the only way it will go</p><p class=MsoNormal>down is by tightening the 3 screws yet from what I can tell the screws</p><p class=MsoNormal>just flex the plastic which in turn allows it to stick out to far. I</p><p class=MsoNormal>called ISP west and they seem to make one that looks more like the OEM</p><p class=MsoNormal>ring . Also the tab cancel arm is 1/8” shorter than the OEM . I have</p><p class=MsoNormal>3 mm clearance between the wheel edge and upper collar. Don’t buy</p><p class=MsoNormal>the J bugs ring it’s garbage . I hope the ISP one is better . They</p><p class=MsoNormal>claim it fits 71 to 74 beetles and 72-73 t-3 yet a 71 beetle wheel is</p><p class=MsoNormal>a 2 spoke and can’t be the same as the later 4 spoke I have. I tired</p><p class=MsoNormal>to trim some plastic so it would seat lower in yet it won’t. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> I also while I had all this apart decided to replace the Ignition</p><p class=MsoNormal>electrical switch since once started it would not snap back and was</p><p class=MsoNormal>difficult to turn. The 40 + year old original switch was still in</p><p class=MsoNormal>there. I had a german vw switch and once I pulled the old switch out</p><p class=MsoNormal>is was spit open all the way through the end opposite of the plug even</p><p class=MsoNormal>the collar where the key cylinder fit the white round housing was only</p><p class=MsoNormal>held on by a small bit. I removed the cylinder and cleaned the lock</p><p class=MsoNormal>housing and lubed the key cylinder so it was easy to turn and now once</p><p class=MsoNormal>started the key snaps back better than it has in a good long time .</p><p class=MsoNormal>It’s amazing it even worked also now when I remove the key to lock</p><p class=MsoNormal>engages . I thought the upper collar to column clamp was broken</p><p class=MsoNormal>because I could move the upper part then found the hex key to see and</p><p class=MsoNormal>the bolt was real loose now it’s tight and has no up/ down movement</p><p class=MsoNormal>don’t know how I missed that. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> All I need to do now is fix the ring part and I might need a new T/S</p><p class=MsoNormal>switch because all the copper dust from the horn wiper and ring was</p><p class=MsoNormal>all over the switch so It does work yet the right turn lane change is</p><p class=MsoNormal>sluggish and I see no way of cleaning this out plus since for decades</p><p class=MsoNormal>the wheel was always to the right when driving straight I fixed this</p><p class=MsoNormal>once I replaced the tie rod ends and aligned it myself which centered</p><p class=MsoNormal>the wheel I thing because it was always to the right the cancel arm</p><p class=MsoNormal>wore a small groove in the one side of the turn signal cancel arm ,</p><p class=MsoNormal>not sure this is just what it looks like either that of the copper</p><p class=MsoNormal>dust did it.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> Sent from Mail for Windows 10</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> -------------- next part --------------</p><p class=MsoNormal> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...</p><p class=MsoNormal> URL:</p><p class=MsoNormal><http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20190220/5946746d/attachment.html></p><p class=MsoNormal> _______________________________________________</p><p class=MsoNormal> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:</p><p class=MsoNormal> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal> If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>-------------- next part --------------</p><p class=MsoNormal>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...</p><p class=MsoNormal>URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20190221/52a28488/attachment.html></p><p class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________</p><p class=MsoNormal>VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:</p><p class=MsoNormal>http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>