<html><body style="font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><div>I have never replaced one of those brass contact rings. I have a replacement somewhere, but I couldn't find it when I looked quickly last night, so I can't say whether it would have fit better.</div><div><br></div><div>I've always thought I could make a good repair using a bit of shim stock, much like you did, but with a harder, dissimilar metal so the two pieces wouldn't tend to chew into each other. I thought spring steel would be a better choice, with some lubrication to keep the friction down and prevent rust.</div><div><br></div><div>My parts book only shows a single cancelling ring with horn contact for '71-73.<br></div><div><br></div><div>You're lucky you have a '73, because those ignition switches are cheap and readily available. The only lubricant you should use on the key cylinder is graphite dust. Anything wet will tend to collect dirt and eventually gum up.</div><div><br></div><div>Good luck finding a replacement TS switch. Those are equally rare. Some places claim to have them, but they turn out to be Beetle parts, which are slightly different.<br></div><p>-</p><p>****************************<br></p><p>Jim Adney</p><p>Madison, Wisconsin, USA</p><p>****************************</p><br><blockquote class="atmailquote"><br>----- Original Message -----<br><div id="origionalMessageFromField" style="width:100%;display:inline;background:rgb(228,228,228);"><div style="display:inline;font-weight:bold;">From:</div> type3@vwtype3.org</div><br><div id="origionalMessageToField" style="display:inline;font-weight:bold;">To:</div>"type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org><br><div id="origionalMessageSentField" style="display:inline;font-weight:bold;">Cc:</div><br><div style="display:inline;font-weight:bold;">Sent:</div>Wed, 20 Feb 2019 14:16:49 -0800<br><div id="origionalMessageSubjectField" style="display:inline;font-weight:bold;">Subject:</div>[T3] 73 type 3 T/S switch / wheel horn contact ring?<br><br><br>
Last week I decided to fix a few issues. The horn wiper on the T/S switch has a hole worn , not just a hole it had sharp edges so it chewed up the ring/cancel copper to the point where it was like paper thin. I made an .018” brass piece with 4 small tabs to cover the hole then soldered just one end for assured contact . Then before I did this I ordered a replacement wheel contact ring from J Bugs . One of the 3 mounting holes did not line up so I made it oval . Before with all the original parts I could see the wiper and ring looking through the gap between the wheel and upper column housing and there was plenty of space between the wiper and ring . With this new ring mounted to the wheel now I can see the metal contact ring stick out past the edge of the wheel where before it was even if not a bit recessed . What this does is with the wheel mounted that new ring deal just clears the plastic of the high beam switch and really flattens out the wiper on the T/S . <br><br>
From what I can tell the plastic part of the new cancel ring does not seat down far enough in the steering wheel , the only way it will go down is by tightening the 3 screws yet from what I can tell the screws just flex the plastic which in turn allows it to stick out to far. I called ISP west and they seem to make one that looks more like the OEM ring . Also the tab cancel arm is 1/8” shorter than the OEM . I have 3 mm clearance between the wheel edge and upper collar. Don’t buy the J bugs ring it’s garbage . I hope the ISP one is better . They claim it fits 71 to 74 beetles and 72-73 t-3 yet a 71 beetle wheel is a 2 spoke and can’t be the same as the later 4 spoke I have. I tired to trim some plastic so it would seat lower in yet it won’t. <br><br>
I also while I had all this apart decided to replace the Ignition electrical switch since once started it would not snap back and was difficult to turn. The 40 + year old original switch was still in there. I had a german vw switch and once I pulled the old switch out is was spit open all the way through the end opposite of the plug even the collar where the key cylinder fit the white round housing was only held on by a small bit. I removed the cylinder and cleaned the lock housing and lubed the key cylinder so it was easy to turn and now once started the key snaps back better than it has in a good long time . It’s amazing it even worked also now when I remove the key to lock engages . I thought the upper collar to column clamp was broken because I could move the upper part then found the hex key to see and the bolt was real loose now it’s tight and has no up/ down movement don’t know how I missed that. <br><br>
All I need to do now is fix the ring part and I might need a new T/S switch because all the copper dust from the horn wiper and ring was all over the switch so It does work yet the right turn lane change is sluggish and I see no way of cleaning this out plus since for decades the wheel was always to the right when driving straight I fixed this once I replaced the tie rod ends and aligned it myself which centered the wheel I thing because it was always to the right the cancel arm wore a small groove in the one side of the turn signal cancel arm , not sure this is just what it looks like either that of the copper dust did it.<br><br>
Sent from Mail for Windows 10<br><br>
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