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--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks , good to know . I went to install the condenser then realized with out turning it there is no way to get that screw on the vacuum can out , I could probably get it out yet not in with the condenser . It’s been so many years I had to ask you where it fit . In a way some of the condensers that had the holder on the condenser were a lot easier rather than it being a separate piece. Now I recall every time I replaced the condenser and points I still had to time it after so turning the Dist was not an issue. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> As far as the sender, if the tube were off wouldn’t it move the gauge up and down on turns all the time because I only see it below ½ tank , is it possible that because I don’t fill up the tank most times I just get down near the red and put in 3 to 5 gallons and doing this might gum up the float rod cause the float to stick the free on a turn? I realize I still need to look either way to really know. I also need to check out why the Brown wire from the sender to the gauge has 44 ohms on it when I disconnect it at both ends. I know I checked it yet with 44 0hms I doubt the gauge would read close to correct at all. I must have read it wrong which is quite possible. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> I did notice when I had the Gauge housing apart because three on the small screws that hold the face the body of the housing 2 were not there and I found them laying it the housing and checked both the gauges I have and noticed on the 73’s gauge one reason it always read past the full mark is there are 2 small stops for the needle and on the full side it was bent back on the 72 gauge they were not , I just left it this way and use the 73 gauge since I know at least how it acts. </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>William</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">Jim Adney</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, March 29, 2019 4:17 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:type3@vwtype3.org">type3@vwtype3.org</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [T3] On the subject of fuel senders and fuel gauge</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>On 28 Mar 2019 at 16:23, William Jahn wrote:</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>> ITMll get another sender gasket , it seals now but might not if I</p><p class=MsoNormal>> remove the sender . </p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>You won't need a new gasket. They tend to remove and replace without </p><p class=MsoNormal>any problems. They are a sort of stiff rubber, and the only ones I've </p><p class=MsoNormal>ever seen that have gone bad were on cars that were EXTREMELY </p><p class=MsoNormal>sunbaked.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Note that the 5 bolt holes are not evenly spaced, so that gasket only </p><p class=MsoNormal>fits one way.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>-- </p><p class=MsoNormal>*******************************</p><p class=MsoNormal>Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>Madison, Wisconsin, USA</p><p class=MsoNormal>*******************************</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________</p><p class=MsoNormal>VWType3.Org mailing list - type3@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:</p><p class=MsoNormal>http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal>If you need more help, contact: gregm@vwtype3.org</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>