<div dir="ltr"><div>I had no idea OE wires had screw in cap and coil ends. I can only imagine what they were like, all I can picture if I were to do this they would have to be a 90 degree boot with a 90 degree none removable piece similar to the plug ends and for a resister in the coil end seems the rotor may not have had a resister built in unless it was a lower valve resistor in the rotor. <br></div><div><br></div><div> My car had black plug wires when I got it, they were thinner and had the same type plug ends, I don't recall what the cap ends looked like . they were in such sorry shape even though I ran them for a year or so they were brittle and arching I do recall the coil wire was solid core . I never checked what the cap ends were like. The cap was also dark brown instead of the orange or sometimes black. I just bought a set of new Bosch wires from a small independent shop here around 1987 and they were the same as the set I have now. I'm not sure if the Bosch wires I have now are stainless or tinned stranded copper. I didn't look at the end of the strands when I cut it all I know is they were silver in color. The cap ends are crimp on brass and hold up well yet stainless would probably be better. The cap boots are 90 degrees yet the wire is straight with the same crimp on ends so in order to fit them I needed to pull the boot back seat the wire into the cap then slide the boot back . over time they take a set and stay in the center. I'd prefer 90 degree cap ends and think Bosch made them straight so the same wires will work on a beetle and T-3 straight boot or 90 degree. There is not much info on type 3's tons on beetles. Makes it difficult to find info. I should have paid more attention to the wires that came on my car then I may have have screw on both ends , they looked original yet I feel the newer silicone covering is better than the old black ones they were more of a rubber. I never cared for carbon core wires on any car or truck I owned always replaced them with stranded solid core. <br></div><div><br></div><div> I have 4 good spare plug ends and some wire for spares and now a solid core coil wire. I should have replaced the oil cooler seals when I had the runners off because I wiped the top on the case down and see a it of wet oil by the cooler seals . I just blew it off and didn't want to pull everything off the left side mainly the injector harness just to get the left tin off. It's not real bad and I see some oil from the rear main seal s I lose about a 1/2 pint in 200 miles it doesn't leak unless it's running and the engines cold less so when it's warmed up and the pressure drops.And it leaks a bit at the pump cover gasket or studs because I don't have sealing nuts on the pump. I didn't have internet in 97 when I rebuilt the 72 case and didn't know about the better sealing nuts all I had was the Bentley and Haynes.</div><div><br></div><div> I did find out what my EJ auto trans diff is , got this from a fellow on Samba.</div><div><br></div><div> "
<span class="gmail-postbody">My documentation says for the type 3 autos:
<br>
<br>
EA: carbs, if necessary replace by EJ (see Worksheet H4.2/1-13)
<br>
EB: Injection, up to 8.71
<br>
EJ: Injection, 8.71-on, with additional connector for US
<br>
<br>
all three have 9x33 ring and pinions, so the usual 3.67:1
"<br>
<br><br></span>
</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div> <br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 5:34 AM Jim Adney <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">On 9 Nov 2019 at 21:17, William Jahn wrote:<br>
<br>
> The two sets of Bosch wires I got seem to reach well enough though #1 could<br>
> be a bit longer at least it wouldn't hurt if it had 2" more.<br>
<br>
Sounds like Bosch made some changes in the lengths over the years. I think <br>
I generally make the #1 wire maybe 6" longer than what comes in the boxes.<br>
<br>
> I'm pretty sure I have 1 and 2 in the right path from the cap over the<br>
> breather tucked under the breather tab then down to the one double holder<br>
> that's near the edge of the oil bath hidden with the oil bath in place then<br>
> outside and over the fuel line and outside of FI plug for #1.<br>
<br>
That sounds perfect.<br>
<br>
> I favored the cap booths so 1 & 2 face the right and it was just enough<br>
> where they don't touch anything probably why I need to move them out of<br>
> the breather to lift the cap away enough . <br>
<br>
One advantage of the OG dist cap ends is that they are easy to pull out of <br>
the dist cap and set aside while working inside the dist.<br>
<br>
> I don't have a great crimping tool for the cap or coil ends <br>
<br>
That's another big advantage of using the OG dist cap ends: They screw into <br>
the wire so there's no crimping required. Some of our cars also came with a <br>
special resistor end for the nose of the coil, which also screws into the wire. <br>
If you have that piece (also NLA new) then all 5 of your SP wires have screw <br>
connections at each end.<br>
<br>
Note, however, that the screw connectors are not suitable for carbon core <br>
wire. The best thing to do with that wire is to throw it away and replace it with <br>
copper or stainless core wire. <br>
<br>
-- <br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
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