<div dir="ltr"><div>No problem . If you find you need a relay this one would work just fine. <a href="https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-and-resistors/p/novita-40-amp-spdt-accessory-replay/849395_0_0">https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-and-resistors/p/novita-40-amp-spdt-accessory-replay/849395_0_0</a>. <br></div><div><br></div><div> Wouldn't hurt to have a spare and it has all you need and can be mounted easy. Still I feel it's that one wire. <br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 9:07 PM Tim Schiller <<a href="mailto:schillertim@comcast.net">schillertim@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">It’s hard not to run out right now and check all those, but will early tomorrow morning. Thx for some direction <br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Jul 9, 2021, at 8:58 PM, William Jahn <<a href="mailto:willjahn975@gmail.com" target="_blank">willjahn975@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Last thought , if you find there is an issue with the power relay I think<br>
> Jim may have some good used ones or just a 30 amp Bosch relay wired the<br>
> same way will work , they all work the same way. It's just the amperage<br>
> that differs.<br>
> <br>
>> On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 8:52 PM William Jahn <<a href="mailto:willjahn975@gmail.com" target="_blank">willjahn975@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
>> <br>
>> From what you said I doubt if the pump relay is the issue. I bet you find<br>
>> that red /black wire at the battery is either loose or corroded or the<br>
>> eyelet on the end of that wire is not making good contact to that wire. If<br>
>> it's not there check the spade connector on the power relay. It has to be a<br>
>> good connection at both ends. If it is that red/black I would still make<br>
>> sure the power relay spade connectors are all sound and fit snug . I went<br>
>> through mine a while back and found the brown ground screw was fine yet the<br>
>> spade connector only had one rolled edge . It worked I was just checking<br>
>> and happened to find it. So I checked them all . it's even possible the<br>
>> power relay contacts have high resistance yet they don't have that much<br>
>> current to burn them. Mine is the original on my 73 I decided to just check<br>
>> for voltage drop and found there was some so I removed the relay cover and<br>
>> cleaned the contacts. This is my only car and the last thing I want is to<br>
>> be sitting somewhere stranded.<br>
>> <br>
>>> On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 8:34 PM William Jahn <<a href="mailto:willjahn975@gmail.com" target="_blank">willjahn975@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
>>> <br>
>>> On the positive battery post there is one red/black wire that runs across<br>
>>> from the battery pos to 30/51 on the power relay . That wire is fastened to<br>
>>> the pos battery clamp bolt by an eyelet then the battery clamp nut . This<br>
>>> wire is the only power to the power relay . Check that to make certain it<br>
>>> has a good connection to the battery . If there is a voltage loss there you<br>
>>> will not get 12 volts at the pump relay . All it takes is it being loose or<br>
>>> corroded . It runs all the way from the battery to the power relay. That<br>
>>> may explain why it works then doesn't. That is the contact part of the<br>
>>> relay that sends power to 85 on the pump relay. If it's loose or corroded<br>
>>> all it takes is to try to start the car and you get an arc which might be<br>
>>> just enough for it to make enough contact to run the pump . I would check<br>
>>> that before going any further. If there is going to be a bad connection<br>
>>> either it's loose and you know how battery cables get corroded . It's<br>
>>> simple to check and rule it out . It runs near the top inside of the wall<br>
>>> held by small tabs . You will be able to see it easy.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 8:01 PM Tim Schiller <<a href="mailto:schillertim@comcast.net" target="_blank">schillertim@comcast.net</a>><br>
>>> wrote:<br>
>>> <br>
>>>> Replaced fuse with 8 amp just in case it was bad. Bentley manual shows<br>
>>>> most fuses are 8 amp except 9 & 11 are 16 amp. Appears several mine are 16<br>
>>>> when they should be 8. Separate issue.<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> I hear the 2 clicks, both the fuel pump relay a main power relay when<br>
>>>> key is turned on.<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> I tested pump again with a direct power source and it buzzes. Car<br>
>>>> actually started a ran for a while after immediately hooking relay back up.<br>
>>>> However, when I turned it off it would not start again. When car was<br>
>>>> started, the 87 pin was reading 12V<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> Back to testing the fuel pump relay. The voltage to pin 87 is not<br>
>>>> consistent. Turning key I sometimes get a zero reading, sometimes a 5-6V<br>
>>>> reading and sometimes a 2-3 V reading. I tested when the pump wire was not<br>
>>>> attached trying to eliminate the ground wire to the pump as a possible<br>
>>>> issue. Not really sure how anyone can follow that brown wire between relay<br>
>>>> and pump.<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> I found some help to turn key so I could hold on to pump. There is a<br>
>>>> little bit of a buzz when the key is turned on, but didn’t seem that<br>
>>>> strong. It feels like it is priming or buzzing for 1-2 seconds when the key<br>
>>>> is then turned off. Seems just opposite of what it should be doing<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> Currently trying to find something on Samba forum for a similar problem.<br>
>>>> I really struggle with the search function on Samba<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>>> On Jul 9, 2021, at 12:39 PM, Jim Adney <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> On 9 Jul 2021 at 10:48, Tim Schiller wrote:<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>>> I will follow the ground and check the fuse<br>
>>>>>> <br>
>>>>>> I did hook a reliable 12V to the red wire going to pump. Pump buzzes<br>
>>>> loud<br>
>>>>>> and clear.<br>
>>>>>> <br>
>>>>>> I had purchased 2 relays and swapped just in case one was bad, but<br>
>>>> same<br>
>>>>>> results<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> One other quick check you can easily do if the car is in a quiet<br>
>>>> place, is to<br>
>>>>> listen when you turn the key ON. You should hear a relay click when<br>
>>>> the key<br>
>>>>> goes ON and a second relay click about 1 second later.<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> If you have questions about whether this is happening correctly, look<br>
>>>> under<br>
>>>>> the back seat, on the driver's side. Mounted on the top rail, there<br>
>>>> will be 2<br>
>>>>> relays, each mounted with a single screw. One of them has a ground<br>
>>>> wire<br>
>>>>> under that screw head. Make SURE that screw is tight. That's the<br>
>>>> ground for<br>
>>>>> the main power relay coil.<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> --<br>
>>>>> *******************************<br>
>>>>> Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
>>>>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
>>>>> *******************************<br>
>>>>> <br>
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</blockquote></div>