<div dir="ltr">I am always told SAE 40 is too thick. Would it be wise to try SAE 30? Just to see what the temps are. Autozone has STP SAE30 detergent oil , no idea what the zinc content is . I still want to see what the cooler bypass relief valve looks like. If the spring is weak it may not allow the oil to go through the cooler. I do have a NOS spring and piston, also want to know if the relief valve is free and not stuck. It's been there since 97 and I used the one from the 73 case so that spring has to be pretty old and the 73 did get real hot once over 250. I understand how thick oil may take too long to open the path to the cooler. I ran Castrol for a few years. It has no zinc yet it didn't hurt anything. This engine does not have more than 40K miles on it . If I go to SAE 30 and it runs cooler and I hear no noises it might be ok , if I hear noise I can go back to SAE 40. The Valvoline SAE 30 costs a lot just to see if 30 makes any difference. <br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 10:36 AM William Jahn <<a href="mailto:willjahn975@gmail.com">willjahn975@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">I looked at Gene Bergs site last night and this is the main part . "
I have run hundreds of accuracy tests on practically every inexpensive
aftermarket gauge under $125 offered. Practically all read low in the
212 to 260 degree range by 40 to 50 degrees on oil temperature and head
temperature gauges in the 250 to 550 degree reading range, again being
low by as much as 250 or more degrees. I tested about twenty each of
most brands such as VDO, Smith, Stewart Warner, Hawk, etc., and found
none without these problems.<p>Oil temperature gauge readings would be
212 to 220 degrees on the gauge when the true test temperature was 240
to 260 degrees. Head temperature gauges read 385 degrees with a true
test temperature of 550 plus degrees. When head test temperatures were
upped to 700 degrees, the reading of the gauge went up to 390 to 395
degrees. The price range of such gauges was from $60 to $125. I swapped
gauges with senders and got different readings. I found nothing in that
price range I would wish on my worst enemy. Not one I tested could ever
be properly calibrated or relied on in any way for any valid information
or even as a comparison from day to day on the air cooled VW."</p><p> This is the video I saw talking about the VDO temp gauge sensor in the oil cooler bypass spot.</p><div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBdOMmf1Pho&t=15s" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBdOMmf1Pho&t=15s</a>. <br></div><div><br></div><div> He mentions Gene Berg , talks about the thermometer down the dipstick. I really question his knowledge. He never actually shows any tests or offers any proof. If you want to watch it do let me know if you see and hear. what I do. <br></div><div><br></div><div> I can test the sensor in boiling water to see what the ohm reading is. I Realize boiling point changes at altitude so I need to find a chart . The other thing I need to do to really know is heat the sensor to 212F and to actually know what the gauge reads. In order to do this I would need to use a hot plate to boil the water , and have the sensor connected to the gauge to know what the gauge actually reads. The only info I have is 700 ohm cold and 22 ohm warm. I guess I could get the sensor to 212F, check the ohm readout then use a variable resistor set to that value and see what the temp gauge reads. That may be the easiest solution. <br></div><div><br></div><div> All the decades VW never had more than an oil light and people lived with this and it seemed to work. On the other hand I feel it's good to have a temp gauge and pressure and voltmeter. <br></div><div><br></div><p><br></p>
</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 7:19 AM Jim Adney <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">On 7 Sep 2021 at 11:39, William Jahn wrote:<br>
<br>
> I read that Gene Berg said most of the VDO and other brands of oil temp<br>
> gauge senders were not accurate in a certain range , and I can't recall off<br>
> hand what the range was. I'm also not sure if he was referring to both the<br>
> gauge and sender combined. <br>
<br>
My recollection is that Berg simply said that all the temp sensors he had <br>
tested were inaccurate. I'm willing to assume he meant the combination of <br>
sensor and readout, since nothing else makes sense. I don't recall his <br>
mentioning any particular range, but the only range you're interested in is <br>
the one that just happens to be around the boiling point of water. <br>
<br>
Gene said this as an introduction of his Beetle dipstick sensor indicator, <br>
which is just an on/off switch that you wire in parallel to the oil pressure <br>
switch, so it also turns the oil pressure light ON at 212 F. This is quite <br>
reasonable since that's a good checkable point for oil temp.<br>
<br>
It was this note from Gene that made me realize that this was a good way for <br>
anyone to check the accuracy of their gauge. If you happen to live at high <br>
altitude, where water boils at lower temps, you may want to drive downhill a <br>
bit to do this test, or find a chart for boiling point of water vs. altitude.<br>
<br>
-- <br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
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