<div dir="ltr"><div> Just for reference I have a VDO voltmeter under the dash that is connected to a (key on) fuse of the fuse box. I checked its calibration with a good DVOM connected to the battery because there is a calibration screw in the gauge. </div><div><br></div><div> It's only when driving city streets, in this case it's 50% running at idle. Auto trans in drive 850 RPM. As long as the voltmeter reads above 12 volts this issue does not exist. The voltmeter has from 8 volts to 16 in 1 volt graduations which are evenly spaced from 10 to 14 volts. Once it drops just below 12 volts ( on the gauge I have to guess and say 11.7 volts. A much more accurate reading would be a voltmeter right off the battery which I didn't have the chance to do. It's a 3 mile one way drive so I expect the sitting 50% of the time to consider this normal. Driving with steady speeds where it's not at idle for 50% of the time this issue does not exist.<br></div><div><br></div><div> I didn't notice I wrote lash in the title. </div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 5:47 AM Jim Adney <<a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org">jadney@vwtype3.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Not sure what your problem is, or what you're asking. I suggest you re-read <br>
and correct your typos before sending. <br>
<br>
Are you complaining that your turn signals go too fast at idle? Yes, that can <br>
be a problem at times, due to low voltage. Usually, a good battery will hold <br>
the voltage up for a few minutes while idling, but only after the charging <br>
system has had enough time at speed to bring the battery up to full charge.<br>
<br>
Right after starting the car, the battery will always be somewhat depleted, so <br>
it will need some recharging. This won't happen at idle; the generator needs <br>
to be brought up to a medium speed for a minute or so to recharge the <br>
battery.<br>
<br>
You can test this by watching the voltage at the fuse box to see how high it <br>
needs to be for the turn signals to work correctly. Do this by bringing the <br>
RPMs up slowly while watching the voltage and the turn signals. Once you <br>
know the threshold voltage, let the generator recharge the battery by driving, <br>
and then watch the voltage decline when you come back to idle. <br>
<br>
What is that voltage threshold for your car, and how quickly does the system <br>
fall back to that voltage after you drop back to idle?<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6 Jul 2023 at 21:40, William Jahn wrote:<br>
<br>
> I removed the right side just to take a look since this is the side that<br>
> was hit years ago and the body shop removed that fender. I see the round to<br>
> a three way connector . I checked and have a good ground but the turn lamp<br>
> wire harness no longer has the rubber cover , I just see the wires.<br>
> <br>
> It does this on both left and right sides and only at an idle , once I<br>
> move and the voltage is back to 14 volts it all works. I read a bit less<br>
> than 12 volts when this happens. With the head lamps off there is no issue.<br>
> I charged the battery. It was a bit low after this. Most of the time even<br>
> with a fully charged battery it still does this. A year ago it didn't do<br>
> this and even now it still cranks and starts fine even with the battery at<br>
> rest reading 12.34 volts.<br>
> <br>
> No idea what changed in a year. Or maybe I just don't recall. Maybe it<br>
> did.<br>
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-- <br>
*******************************<br>
Jim Adney, <a href="mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org" target="_blank">jadney@vwtype3.org</a><br>
Madison, Wisconsin, USA<br>
*******************************<br>
<br>
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