[T3] Brake Calipers
Dave Hall
dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Wed Aug 10 02:06:13 PDT 2011
Do the calipers have a step in the face of the piston (part 5 in the
picture), which is filled by a sort of triangular shaped piece of metal part
6 in this picture? http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3/T3pbo/T3pb6-22.htm
That needs to be at the bottom of the caliper on a Type 3 (top on a Type 4).
Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
Rowley
Sent: 10 August 2011 02:10
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
I am upgrading to late calipers, and understand the single bleeders are
rare. The rebuilds from Rock Auto had one with one bleeder and the other
two. I was told could not specify anything, but could ask.
How would one check, and how do the pads wear different?
I could not afford the $75 per each despite wanting a community member to
rebuild them. So had no options but a big company. ;(
Thank you,
Adriel
> From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 23:13:13 +0100
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
> The lower bleed screws are really for draining the fluid when changing it.
> The original calipers (if they had two bleed screws) do have a left
> and right-hand, based on which way the tapered piston retaining plate
> fits. They fit on the lower pin. If yours are replacements, they may
> have a flat shim that fits on both pins, and can be fitted on either
> wheel, but expect uneven wear as a result.
>
> It's a good reason to rebuild the originals.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
> Adriel Rowley
> Sent: 09 August 2011 21:58
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
> When I pulled the bleeder, looked as if the inside end had no hole. I
> put caps on the prior calipers, so will see if they are still there so
> at least the tops have caps. The lower bleeders are already rusted into
place.
>
> I pay extra attention, but did not consider the twist to be an issue
> as not mentioned in the Bentley or "Look and Listen". If I do not
> feel something is right, I used to take it in, but the shop only made
> it worse. Think now only option be Jack.
>
> I figure they should be locked, but could not get both the flathead
> and the hammer under there. Guess could check it now and then.
>
> Shoes were used before removing, but had to install new wheel
> cylinders and some hardware the shop lost.
>
>
> Thank you,
> Adriel
>
> > From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:42:13 +0100
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
> >
> > The bleeder cap is to keep wet and dirt out of the hollow bleeder screw.
> > You should get one if you ever find one is missing, but a piece of
> > tape is fine to seal it until you can get one. Water in there might
> > rust the bottom of the screw and make it impossible to unscrew
> > without breakage or more often seal up the bleed hole so it doesn't
work.
> >
> > While engine work going wrong will just be an inconvenience and
> > bodywork will just look bad, brake work being done wrong can kill
> > you and others you may hit. Do make sure you really understand how
> > to do a job, and read all the manuals you can find to make sure you
> > don't make mistakes like kinking hoses. Obviously you won't make
> > that one
> again.
> >
> > The lock tabs should be bent up to stop the bolts backing out,
> > though it's probably unlikely if they are torqued correctly. "Belt
> > and braces" they call that.
> >
> > New brake shoes will take a bit of adjustment when they wear in.
> >
> > Dave.
> > UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> > ===================
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> > [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
> > Adriel Rowley
> > Sent: 09 August 2011 04:02
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Subject: [T3] Brake Calipers
> >
> >
> > Decided to attempt to drive the Squareback down to Imperial Beach
> > this afternoon, but did not start well. Finished a Summer class
> > last night, and have been burning the midnight oil for several
> > nights in a row, then getting up around seven thirty. So,
> > accidentally slept until noon, but guess once in my life will not
> > hurt me. ;) Got right to her, but could not get the home made brake
> > bleeder to work. So, repaired it with R.T.V. adhesive, and needed
> > to dry. Tried to get to the rear adjusted, but since I have a heavy
> > load in the back, could not quite get in the right position. Then
> > thought I park it in the drive to be safer. Nope, battery died down
> > while away. Try to find a extension cord to reach it, and find
> > none. See the neighbor that has a '67 Beetle talking to another
> > neighbor, and go ask if they have one to lend. Neighbor has one,
> > happy bring it home, plug one end in, and realize it is a few feet
> > short. This is just not my day. Get the idea to check in the
> > Christmas stuff (hands were now clean) and found one just barely
> > long enough. Plug in the charger, and it is not humming. It is a
> > unit I pulled out of Jack's trash, and figured out the meter does
> > not work, 6 volt circuit maybe no good since that is the only
> > circuit he needs, and a bit corroded from being left out in the
> > rain. I cannot complain, because been working fine, so will leave
> > it alone until I need to fix it; saved me $50. ;) Anyway, so figured
> > it had died, but grabbed the volt meter, and found no voltage
> > leaving the unit. So, feel under the seat, and dos not feel like it
> > is connected. Shift the load around, and get up the seat to find it
> > is disconnected. Connected it, but still not working, then dawns on
> > me there might be a way to test if power is coming in. Checked, and
> > the case
> is grounded, so used that and the incoming power terminal, and found
> no voltage. Apparently when I went in the house, forgot to plug it back
in.
> > Duh! Did that, and check again, and all was good. Going to leave
> > it over night on trickle, and see if that lasts me a while.
> >
> > With the battery charging, went and checked the bleeder; still needs
> > time to cure. The pedal was not pressurizing the system, so thought
> > was due to lack of fluid getting into the calipers. Had fluid on
> > the right, but not the left. Checked the bleeder valve, and
> > realized it is basically a threaded plug. So then why do we put caps on
them?
> > When I had to attach the hoses to the calipers prior, the hoses got
> > twisted. Thought nothing of it at the time, but suspected it today.
> > So took off both calipers to be sure both were kosher. Forgot the
> > bleeder on the left was open, and soon as I got the hose straitened,
> > had a mini geyser. Let the air bleed out even though was the wrong
> > side, but figured it would not hurt if I bled it again after the
> > right. The pad clip was pushing the pads inward, so repositioned it
> > so the clip was on top of the pads, not between it. Mounted it on
> > the caliper on the disk, and went in for lunch. Came back, and the
> > pressure bleeder was still not cured, so decided to to try and learn
> > something new: gravity bleed. Opened the bleeders and let them sit
> > for about fifteen minutes to be sure there was no air in the system.
> > While waiting, reinstalled the calipers, but could not get the
> > bottom tabs to bend onto the bolts due to lack of clearance. Bolts
> > properly
> torqued, so alright to leave the bottoms unlocked?
> >
> > Seemed there was very little air in the system, especially the left.
> > The right at first had old DOT-3 or 4 in it, so made sure it drained
> > out. The lower bleeders were rusted to the caliper body, so left
> > them. Figured if it is not broken do not fix it. ;) Pedal felt
> > good, but seems the rear shoes might need adjusting soon. Do the
> > shoes need to reseat after they have been reinstalled?
> >
> > Did noticed the left caliper is a bit tighter than the left. I used
> > a paint can to hold the pedal down, and both grip the same.
> > Thinking just quit being paranoid and leave it. Calipers are not
> > original, as the lock plates were not locked, and there was
> > anti-seize on the bolts. Pads also look new, so will leave them and
> > install the ceramic ones later. No use wearing out quality pads
> > grinding down rust. ;)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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