[T3] Generator and Fuel Line Questions
Jim Adney
jadney at vwtype3.org
Wed Dec 28 20:15:31 PST 2011
On 28 Dec 2011 at 11:52, Chris Sheridan wrote:
> I have a couple random questions. My car is a 1970 Fastback Automatic.
>
> 1) Does anyone have a good method of tightening the Generator Pulley Nut?
> Unlike the type 2 and type 1 pulley, there is no notch to place a
> screwdriver to prevent the inner half of the pulley from turning as you try
> to tighten the nut down.
Look at the formed washer under the nut: If it's the correct Type 3
part, it will have flats on its sides. Using 2 wrenches, use the
flats on the washer to hold the pulley while you turn the nut with
the second wrench. This is clumsy, but it works.
VW had a special offset open end wrench for this, but you can do it
with the right size straight wrench.
> 2) Does anyone have a good method for tightening the fuel return line where
> it attaches above the transmission on the right side of the motor ? Mine
> began leaking and I mistook it for transmission fluid and changed the pan
> and gasket, only to find that it was the fuel line. Replaced that but can
> only get the screw on the hose clamp so tight due to clearance issues.
> Doesn't leak until I start the car and then the line pressure makes it
> bleed all over the driveway.
>From your descripion, I'm guessing that you're asking about the hose
connection on the transmission side of the engine breast plate. There
should really never be any significant pressure in that hose, and it
should not increase much when the engine is running.
If you're talking about the hose on the engine side of the breast
plate and pressure regulator, then that goes up to 30 psi when the
engine is running.
Either way, the key to getting a good seal is twofold: Use the right
hose and the right clamp.
The right hose is 5/16" (= 8 mm.) The 7 mm hose will work but it
won't last because it has to stretch too much over the fittings.
Standard 5/16" fuel hose works just fine. You do NOT need the
special, expensive fuel injection hose (which is rated for FI systems
with much higher pressure than our cars use.) I stock good US made
5/16" hose.
The right clamp will be almost anything that's sized correctly for
the OD of the hose. Don't use a large clamp which you tighten way
down. In no case is it necessary to get the clamp really tight. Snug
actually works better.
If your connection leaks after you replaced the hose, check to make
sure that the hose nipple is not damaged and that the hose liner did
not get torn in the process of forcing it onto the fitting.
--
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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