[T3] Generator and Fuel Line Questions

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Thu Dec 29 07:59:34 PST 2011

You just put a wrench on the flats of the domed spacer, and hold that while
you tighten the nut.  It's 27mm across flats (about 1 1/16")  

You can make things a bit easier if you loosen the strap and slide the
dynamo away to give more clearance, then put back where it should be.

You MUST refit the dynamo so the airflow from the fan housing still gets
into the dynamo.  There's a spot on the dynamo casing that must line up with
the mark on the strap.

If you make a wrench yourself, give it a crank to make it a bit easier.

Some people adjust the shims with the dynamo off the car and ease it back
onto the stand, then bolt the strap back over.  It's a bit brutal, but

UK VW Type 3&4 Club

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: 28 December 2011 19:52
To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Generator and Fuel Line Questions

I have a couple random questions. My car is a 1970 Fastback Automatic.

1) Does anyone have a good method of tightening the Generator Pulley Nut?
Unlike the type 2 and type 1 pulley, there is no notch to place a
screwdriver to prevent the inner half of the pulley from turning as you try
to tighten the nut down.

2) Does anyone have a good method for tightening the fuel return line where
it attaches above the transmission on the right side of the motor ? Mine
began leaking and I mistook it for transmission fluid and changed the pan
and gasket, only to find that it was the fuel line. Replaced that but can
only get the screw on the hose clamp so tight due to clearance issues.
Doesn't leak until I start the car and then the line pressure makes it bleed
all over the driveway.

Thanks and Happy Holidays,

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