[T3] Endless Fuel Problems Not Ended...

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Tue Jan 25 04:31:46 PST 2011


Well, it's getting in through the injectors - any of the five.  Is the cold
start one still connected to the fuel supply?  Do any of the others drip
when the fuel system is pressurised by the pump?  I wonder if the throttle
switch is working when it shouldn't.

It seems a lot of fuel to get into the oil - how long did it take to gain
that amount of fuel in the oil (miles of driving)? 
Usually I would suspect a damaged mechanical fuel pump diaphragm, or a carb
that's overflowing but you haven't got either of those, so it's getting past
the rings as a very rich mixture.   

The fuel pressure gauge may give you an answer - best try that.  If the fuel
pressure regulator is faulty or the return hose is partially blocked, that
could certainly explain things.

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
=================== 

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: 24 January 2011 23:17
To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Endless Fuel Problems Not Ended...

Sqbk. 72 engine FI  Std shift.

Despite a long time trying to figure out why this car runs so rich that it
has dripped gas, and diluted the engine oil significantly----and trying to
follow directions to test and isolate problem areas....it's back to being as
bad as ever, if not worse.

  It USED to start up after stalling, with cranking, after a few minutes
wait, but now...even a new battery couldn't crank it to start. Had to be
pushed home. Lucky, not TOO far.
 Found that the oil reading was WAY up the dipstick....maybe twice as much
fluid (now half gas, of course) as normal reading.  Drained that out, let
car sit for two days...put in a quart and a half of new oil (to be able to
notice any more flooding while car is idling). I'm not going to trust this
car to the road til this is solved.  My girlfriend's car is too small to
push it home regularly.

So...I will re-find the directions re/ doing Volt-Ohm meter checks of
everything that's likely suspect.   I just bought a new Volt meter...not
trusting the previous one.

 But today, both the new and old meters had unconnected and connected
battery at 12.29 volts---Battery with engine running (yes) at  13.50
volts.....and battery with engine revved at 14.60 volts.   Isn't that about
right?  Does this test eliminate concerns about battery and Voltage
Regulator?
  And, I think I spent $20 on new meter unnecessarily...not to mention $5
for that tiny one inch long 12V battery.  

 Battery is only about 2 months old.  Got it as free replacement for
previous battery that turned out unable to take a charge.  (It was under a
year old.)
 Question----  Can electrical screw-ups in the car kill a battery like
that?    If so...what component(s) are capable of doing that?...i.e, making
it un-chargeable?  

 Have borrowed Fuel Pressure Gauge on hand.   Will test fuel pressure
tomorrow. It was set at 29 psi when that was last done. Will check pressure
AND for odd fluctuations while driving (around the block).
  Not sure what the fluctuations will tell me though.  Bad Pressure Sensor? 
Bad Temp Sensor(s)?  Erratic Fuel Pump?

  Have I accidentally provided any clues here to diagnose the problem?
 



      
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