[T3] Rattling shifter

Bryon Garvin spinningrooves at gmail.com
Sun Jan 30 17:25:02 PST 2011


Ok -

I finally had time to look into my shifter rattle (which has been worsening)
as well as the sometimes-difficult shifting between 1st and 2nd.  Sometimes
hard, sometimes not.

Here's what I found when I pulled the gearshift out:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QRI5DJTd_0VWRv9_2ixYGhcfKKAyAIKBl44rFl1M4Ig?feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8vZkJZOz66oKwcoQdVHWehcfKKAyAIKBl44rFl1M4Ig?feat=directlink

Those pictures aren't too different from each other.  But it seems to me
that the bushing is ripped/torn/broken.  Would you all agree ?  I saved some
notes about the discussion of this replacement job.  Am I correct in
thinking you HAVE to pull the rod completely out?  Sounds like some thought
it could be done without that happening, but in the end, it probably was
near impossible to do it with the shift rod still in the car.

So is this the process?:


   - Remove rod thru the front.
   - As rod slides out, remove old bushing and keep retaining ring.
   - Slide rod back in putting new bushing around rod, sliding bushing into
   bracket.
   - Add retaining ring around bushing.

It seems simple enough, but I know folks have cursed up and down while
trying to do all of this.  I can't quite understand why the bushing doesn't
want to easily go into the bracket?  Is that because it's too big in the
middle.  I think someone said there's a thin part of the rod where you can
put the bushing on and then get it in the bracket, taking advantage of the
diameter of the rod at that point.  Is this right?

Any clarification greatly appreciated.  I'm going to get the parts this week
and have a friend help me with the replacement.  He'll just be extra hands,
so it'll be me that needs to understand the procedure.

Thanks,

 - Bryon, '71 Fastback.



On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 11:46 AM, Richard Hamje <richard at hamje.net> wrote:

> Thank you everyone for the tips.  I replaced the bushing this weekend and
> the rattle is gone.  But what a nightmare that job is!
>
> I'm not sure what the "right" way is to do this job.  I removed the entire
> shift rod through the front, which meant the coupler at the rear had to come
> off (Bentley's says to just remove the set screw, but I could not see how to
> get the tube out without removing the coupling also). Then I tried treading
> the rod back in with the bushing in the shift guide.  This was a bad idea,
> as the bushing fell out and rolled down the tunnel - took me 2 hours to
> retrieve it.  So I next inserted the tube just through the guide, and then
> placed the bushing on the end of the tube where there is a smaller diameter
> section.  Was able to then seat this into the guide and push the tube back
> in.  It took four tries to get the tube all the way out the rear - it kept
> hanging up on something, I suspect the fuel lines.
>
> In the end it took my about five hours and I got incredibly dirty.  I sure
> hope I never have to do that again.  I don't see any way this could be done
> inside the car, unless the guide was redesigned.
>
> Anyway - it's all smooth now and I thank you all.
>
> Richard Hamje
> Portland, OR  97215
> richard at hamje.net
> Electric '73 Fastback
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment scrubbed and removed.
> HTML attachments are only available in MIME digests.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm at vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/private.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20110130/3ecc47a5/attachment.htm>



More information about the type3-vwtype3.org mailing list