[T3] Some Spark but no Fire (was RE: Update with a Bowl Full of Rust Flakes)

Adriel Rowley adriel_rowley at hotmail.com
Sun Jul 24 23:03:44 PDT 2011

> From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2011 23:11:35 -0500
> Subject: Re: [T3] Some Spark but no Fire (was RE: Update with a Bowl Full of Rust Flakes)
> On 24 Jul 2011 at 15:10, Adriel Rowley wrote:
> > > There should not be a wire that goes from something that rotates to
> > > something that doesn't. There is one wire that jumps across the flex
> > > coupling (rotating to rotating) and another that jumps across the
> > > rubber axle beam mounts, from steering box to beam mounting bolt
> > > (stationary to stationary.)
> > Adney, this did give me a idea=>solution, so thank you! :D  Found this
> > statement interesting, as I checked the other beam, and the wire
> > actually goes to the clamp bolt to steering box.  Mounted this way,
> > only gets tight one way, so sure it is right.  The wire jumps the
> > ground from the column to a ground other than the gears in the
> > steering box.  Figure oil is not a good conductor.
> There shouldn't be anything that gets tight in either direction.
Well the wire does get tight, but does not seem to limit turning.

> > I did notice the fuel looks like dandelion milk.
> That can't be good. How much water is in it? The test for water is to
> drain some out into a glass jar and let it settle. Look for water
> that settles out on the bottom.
I can check in the morning.  There was not much clear to it, but test 
will show what is what.

> > This morning, actually got my bio Mom to crank the engine, and I am
> > getting a blue spark from the coil and spark from cap to wire.  I felt
> > the relays and have clicks from them, and the pump runs when the
> > connector in the engine compartment is grounded.  Timed the engine
> > four times to be sure as that when I timed it the first time it quit
> > running, adjusted the valves, and triple checked the point gap.  Just
> > a short while I cleaned the spark plugs and gapped them.  So, got air,
> > fuel, and spark so do not understand.  Oh, and 12.5 volts.  Now what?
> When you turn the key ON, do you hear the relay click and then click
> again after ~1 second?
Yes, that is what I am saying.  I have had no start so many times, I am
fairly good in remembering all the tests.

> Short between the 2 red wires on the fuel pump relay. That should
> make the pump run. Can you hear it running? If so, let it run for a
> minute or so, until all the bubbling stops. Then you have the fuel
> ring filled with gas. Until you have that, trying to start is just
> wasting your time and battery.
I leave a screw driver up front just for this, and recently to hold the 
door open.  The pump has to be primed every time I go to start, and been 
doing this since I owned her.  Really need to add a momentary switch, but 
the shop that sold them no longer does, and do not know where else to get
them.  Also need four toggle switches for future projects.

> Then, with the pump still running and the key ON, pump the gas pedal
> a couple of times.
I did this just before, and got the same results.  When I go back to the 
engine, I can smell fuel.

> Then try to start the engine.
If I press on the pedal enough, can get it to attempt to start, sort of a 

About hour or so ago, had the idea to check the plugs.  Two were fouled, 
so cleaned them; created better popping.  Retarded the timing to about 
five degrees (second mark), and even stronger popping.  I also found the 
shaft was slipping, so tapped it down and seems better.

Thank you,

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