[T3] Brake pedal pushrod was Houston, we have ignition!

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Sun Jul 31 04:44:35 PDT 2011


I think I recall seeing different lengths for the pushrod mentioned in the
factory Workshop Manual, or a reference to a length that was shorter than
all the ones I have.  

The parts book gives a 113 number for the early push-rod, and a 311 number
for the 67-on, so that solves the origin question as a Beetle part.  

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Sent: 30 July 2011 23:38
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Houston, we have ignition!

In a message dated 7/30/2011 12:45:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jadney at vwtype3.org writes:

On 29  Jul 2011 at 8:07, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:

> Actually I learned a  couple of things. 1) I didn't have a late brake
pedal  
> pushrod  in my stash (only 2 earlies), so I temporarily stole the 1 
> out
of 
> the  71  Square-vert (still need 1 to replace it).

As of this morning,  there's a good used late pushrod on its way to you via
First Class  Mail.


Thank you.
 

> 2),  You can't adjust the older early  style pushrod out far enough,  as
> there isn't enough stud to do this (the max  length is 150 mm,  with
> the 2 halfs butted together, and you need to be at least   150 mm to
> make the dual circuit master work correctly) hence the  stealing of the
>  71's part. 

This is weird. Could your  early pushrod be from a beetle? I never 
heard of anyone having to change  the pushrod when they upgraded to a 
tandem MC, I thought the early and  late MCs that I have seen appear 
to have the same geometry, so I don't  understand why a different 
pushrod would be necessary. I don't have an  early one here to measure 
against; has anyone else done this upgrade and  run into this problem?

I checked the microfilm, and I see that it shows  2 different 
pushrods, but the replacment early pushrod asks to use the  late boot, 
so it's a different version meant to fit the late boot with the  
smaller hole. Sounds like a different length might be the  key.


One of them could be, but the other came off the car. The real difference  
is the length of the stud, as it's at least 3/4" longer. The piece that 
attaches  to the brake pedal is the same (right down to the #17 I have on
all 3, 
including  the late one). Like I said before, the pushrod butted end to end 
(unthreaded) is  150 mm long, so it's not long enough to do the job.
 

> 3)  It pays to make sure you have everything you need before digging 
> in  (a couple of spare parts will save the day too IF something goes 
>  wrong (like a stripped out T fitting at the rear- my fault)), 

My  basement is testimony to my dedication to spare parts, but my wife 
doesn't  share my enthusiasm for this collection. Nevertheless, it's 
always nice to  be able to say, "No problem, I've got one of  those."

;-)


My backyard was like that too, but mostly sheetmetal, as I've used most of  
it up. My mechanical parts "stock" is diminishing too, as I've literally 
built 2  cars in the last 3 years. :O
 

> The  wide 5 kit came with a new boot, so I used it. It was real nice and  
 
> soft. Don't know how long it'll survive (it's Chinese), but it's  done. I 
did 
> put  the weep hole on the bottom at installation.  Thanks for asking.  

It came with an MC boot? That seems odd, but  sure turned out well for 
you. I'm short of the late boots, so I as about  to check the dealer 
price on them. Anyone know of a good place to buy good  ones?



Yes, I was surprised too, but then it was a pretty complete kit. : )
Thanks for all the help you've given me.
 
Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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