[T3] A new T-34 owner?

[John Jaranson]

On Jun 13, 2011, at 9:40 AM, Jim Adney wrote:

> On 13 Jun 2011 at 12:46, jaransont3 at comcast.net wrote:
> 
>> I am glad I did. Found a bunch of little stuff that needs attending
>> to. First, one of the wire clips for the throw-out bearing was off.
>> Easy fix and the throw bearing seems fine.
> 
> Was that the only thing wrong with the clutch? I thought those clips 
> only served to hold the throwout bearing in place until you could get 
> the engine installed and the clutch adjusted. After that, I didn't 
> think the throwout bearing could back out far enough to get out of 
> place.

Pressure plate looks fine.  Clutch disk is pretty thin, but otherwise OK.  Going to replace the disk as long as I have the engine out.  Still need to pull the pedal cluster and check that end of the clutch cable.  No other obvious cause of the symptoms from Saturday.  The needle bearings in the gland nut look fine too, Keith

> 
>> That is when I noticed that the two small pieces of tin around the
>> manifolds were missing. Whoever rebuilt this engine for the previous
>> owners did know type 3s and didn't pay that much attention. Fortunately
>> I had a set of those tins in my stash. 
> 
> How many miles on this engine since it was rebuilt? One of my cars 
> came without those pieces (the ones the SP wires pass thru, right?) 
> and it had been seriously overheated. The flywheel seal was hard as 
> rock and had hundreds of mini cracks that led it to leak oil 
> constantly.  

Just a bit over 5k on the engine.  No obvious signs of overheating.  The valves were all within 0.001 or so of proper adjustment.  I got all the proper tins in place now.

> 
>> Removed the right carb and loosened the manifold to sneak the tin in
>> place and decided I better check the manifold to head gasket, another
>> common mistake people make. Sure enough, they had used the type 1
>> metal gaskets with the built in air leak from the extra hole. 
> 
> I thought those metal gaskets would still seal, it's just that the 
> thickness is wrong for the FI engines. Or does the dual carb manifold 
> not cover the sealing ridge all the way around? I've got some of 
> those parts; I'll have to check. I never thought about that 
> possibility.

There is an extra hole in the gasket inside of the sealing detent.  It overlaps the "cleavage" between the ports on the manifolds.  Direct air leak.  I took some pictures tonight and will post them to my website and provide a link tomorrow.

> 
> Sounds like you found a LOT of little things that needed attention. 
> Those are good to straighten out, because those little details are 
> just the kinds of things that will come back to haunt us if they're 
> left wrong.
> 
> 

I got the proper distributor installed tonight.....after much cursing.  Had to re-index the distributor drive gear/shaft as it was set for a Type 1.  Could not get it pulled up enough to rotate it for the life of me.....after trying for nearly an hour, I had a homer moment and realized it wouldn't come out with the fuel pump drive shaft and bakelite hold still in place.  Duh-Oh.  After that it went pretty easy...until I realized I forgot to install the little spring in the top of the drive shaft.  Out comes the dizzy a second time.  Got that in and the dizzy reinstalled and what do you know....one of the dizzy cap retainer springs falls out.  Could not get it back on....out comes the dizzy a third time.  After that I got it all installed and it is good to go.  Have to set the points and timing still and get some vacuum hose for the advance.  Getting closer to re-installing the engine.  Still a few other little things to do before the weekend.

Later,
John Jaranson
www.carartbyjohn.com


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