[T3] 110 cam and single springs

sploogemeister sploogemeister at sbcglobal.net
Thu May 12 11:36:57 PDT 2011


I've built quite a few that way, from 1600's to 2.3l. If you aren't
going to run your rpm's over 4500, dual springs are not needed. Stock,
aluminum push rods work just fine, but if you need, the ends can be
pulled and you can cut them to length. If you want some stock push rods
with one end removed, email me off list. You put them back together the
same way as "cut to length" cromo push rods. On a "stock" type motor,
even with bigger p & c's, "big valve" heads and a "hot cam", the max
rpm's dictate the need for stronger or dual springs, with the idea to
allow the valves not to "float" at the higher rpm's. The valves will
"float" on a stock (bone stock) engine if you rev too high, the higher
the spring pressure, the higher the redline goes, and the valve train
must be built to accommodate this. Many 5-1600 race engines that see
8k rpm's, have higher spring pressures and stronger push rods to account
for this. Dual springs aren't needed for an engine that won't be revved above 5k. 

--- On Thu, 5/12/11, mark witwicki <witwicki at telusplanet.net> wrote:

> From: mark witwicki <witwicki at telusplanet.net>
> Subject: [T3] 110 cam and single springs
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Date: Thursday, May 12, 2011, 2:49 AM
> Anyone else running a 110 with stock
> single springs? 
> 
> Yes, 1600cc single port dual carbs with cleaned up heads
> and 8.5:1 compression 
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org
> if you need help with the list.
> 



More information about the type3-vwtype3.org mailing list