[T3] Lack of high beam and turn signals

[Adriel Rowley]

----------------------------------------
> From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 12:01:12 -0500
> Subject: Re: [T3] Lack of high beam and turn signals
>
> On 13 May 2011 at 18:53, Adriel Rowley wrote:
>
> > Swapped the turn signal switch and it lights the high beam light all
> > the time. How do I correct this? Other than that, does activate the
> > relay but too bright to be sure the filament is energized.
>
> I get the impression that you're trying to randomly do things that
> you think might fix the problem. This approach appears to be causing
> additional problems.
>
I have a logic in mind that no one can follow, per usual.  I am more 
right brained then left. ;)

Jack pointed out I was grabbing at straws, and thinking on it, he is 
right per usual.  Been thinking, and come to the conclusion I felt I 
was not getting any help that was fixing anything and really wanted to 
make it to the car show; once again, she craps out right before a show.  
Now going to step back, and wait for someone to give me a logical 
process.  Been thinking for several hours about these issues now that 
I have time, but cannot make sense of it all...  
  
> Instead, use a voltmeter to trace the current path. Concentrate on
> exactly ONE problem at a time. Look at your '71 wiring diagram and
> follow the voltage from the source to the load. Verify that you have
> voltage at each step along the way. Remember that your headlight
> current flows thru the ignition switch, the fuse box, the headlight
> switch and the headlight relay. When you find the spot where the
> voltage no longer shows up, then you have to figure out why.
>
I have been trying to trace paths, but have no clue what the path is, 
so makes it a bit of a challenge.  Mind explaining the idiot light 
circuits and the turn signal circuit.  I now understand the dash 
lighting grounds.

I am going to takes Jack's advice, and not concern myself over head- 
lights I may not need.  He said get the idiot lights to work first.

> Note that the headlight voltage does NOT flow thru the TS switch. The
> TS switch only controls the hi/lo relay. No matter what's happening
> in the TS switch, the hi/lo relay should always be in one state or
> the other (hi or lo.)
>
Thank you for clarifying it: I saw that it was just activating the 
relay, and now that I looked at it closer, it was not supposed to be 
stiff to activate (had to pull hard to activate).  Jack showed me the 
lever is broken.  I now want you to address this issue, as it should not 
have snapped. ;/  Do you have a spare spring as the second switch is 
missing it.  Right now do not feel comfortable having you rebuild another 
switch because of how problematic it has been and getting up my courage
to ask you to correct the one you rebuilt. ;|

Jack did something this morning which lead to one of the turn signal 
relay's windings heated up and set the plastic box smoking.  Small price 
to pay when he is being such a help.  :wink:   I still have no turn signals 
How do I test the relay to see if it is still good?

Eliminated the emergency flasher switch and does not correct any of the 
issues mentioned, including blowing fuses.  I.I.R.C. it was grounding the
white wire.

Emergency flasher switch replaced due to acting shorted and per Jack's 
recommendation.  With the new switch activated, all lights in the gas gauge 
go on, except high beam indicator.  Without it activated, I have no idiot 
lights (ignition on and starter relay installed).  The oil pressure warning 
circuit reads 3 ohms and the generator light circuit reads 19.5 ohms.  This 
is from the terminal on the gauge to body.

I now blow the emergency flasher switch fuse when I switch to the left turn 
signal circuit.


Thank you so very much!
Adriel